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Mountain Project -



The Definitive Resource for the Climbing and Mountaineering Community



 



Post: Cams, hexes - BD, Metolius

2017-09-25T14:43:45-06:00

Updating personal rack, getting rid of stuff that's never really been used.

Shipping is ~$8, buyer to pay (can be up to $15 depending on how much you buy)

I do Venmo or paypal. PM if interested.


C4s: tons of life left

.3, .4 - $40 each

.75, 1 - $45

2, 3 - $50

Old Style BD camalot:

.5 - $35

Metolius TCUs:

0 - $10 each

Metolius Curve Hexes: (some haven't even been placed)

1-6: $25

Wild Country Hexes: (2 haven't been placed)

3-5: $25

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20849">


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Submitted By: Molly M
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Italy 2017 Via Ferrata + scrambles

2017-09-25T14:41:54-06:00

VF Jubilaeumsteig in Austria (VF = German "klettersteig")

. . GPS latitude longitude approx (N47.5560 E12.3153)

. . N above Ellmau in the Wilder Kaiser mountain group in the Kaisergebirge,

. . about 45 km north of the Italy-Austria border,

. . about 60 km ENE from city of Innsbruck, about 25 km from Rosenheim, Germany.

Easy cable-aided/protected VF route with some exposure and great views, and huts serving snacks and drinks near each end. One ladder. Many people do it without a Via Ferrata kit, using the cable mainly as a hand-rail.

Several other spectacular shorter hikes from the same parking or one or both of the same huts, if other members of the party don't want to try the VF.

Could also use the VF route to access higher hiking and scrambling. Obvious higher objective is the Ellmauer Tor pass (N47.5659 E12.3213). Above E from that pass is the Hintere Goinger Halt peak If reaching that seemed too easy, can continue over and up to the Fordere Goinger Halt peak.

Katrin and Gi and I did it in the counter-clockwise direction (NE -> SW), after first hiking up from Wochenbrunner Alm parking to the Gaudeamushuette ("Gaudeamus hut") (and Sharon joined us for that far), and used the VF to take us to the Gruttenhuette ("Grutten hut"). Doing it in the other (clockwise) direction allows taking the (not-so-difficult) ladder in the upward  direction, then a smoother downhill finish from the hut afterward.

GPS useful waypoints:

* Parking - hiking trailhead (and meals + drinks) Wochenbrunner Alm . (N47.5412 E12.3190)

* quicker start on trail (dirt road) up to Gaudeamus hut ...

. . . from high N corner of parking . (N47.5422 E12.3191)

* Gaudeamus hut with snacks + drinks . (N47.5493 E12.3244)

* NE end of VF Jubilaeumsteig . (N47.5584 E12.3181)

. . . junction with trail from Gaudeamus hut up to Ellmauer Tor pass

* SW end of VF Jubilaeumsteig at Grunner hut . (N47.5538 E12.3111)


Submitted By: kenr
Location: Trip Reports






Post re: Cut Anchors

2017-09-25T14:39:25-06:00

Re' "Climber Pat"'s comment on the possibility of the knot cutting with repeated weightings...interesting observation and possibility.   However, in both cases these were "outback" climbs that had has very few ascents, and in the case of the 8mm cord around the tree it was the newer of the two cords on the tree...less than 1 1/2 yrs old, and was doubled-around the tree so the know got very little tension from weighting.     


Submitted By: Robert Hall
Location: General Climbing



Post: Just getting into trad looking for some guidance (Boulder)

2017-09-25T14:38:07-06:00

I have been sport climbing for about a year and can lead most 5.10 sport outside (5.11b inside).  I also climb at movement in boulder (willing to use my guest pass if you wanna climb indoors first).  I have just ordered my first trad pro (set of BD4-13 nuts and BD c4s .5-3").  I have followed trad before but am interested in leading and wondering if there's anyone looking for a partner to follow and learn about placing gear and eventually lead.  Thought the flat irons (1st or 3rd) might be a great place to start, or maybe some mixed routes with only a few pieces of gear (or your recommendation).  I would probably want to stay 5.9 and under while learning.  I have a few partners that have shown me a mix of things, but their availability does not match mine much.  

  I have a rope(70m), draws, slings and a car! Love to buy anyone a beer afterwards.  I am free most mornings, this Friday most of the day, and weekend afternoons.   I have read John Longs book, and studied a lot (youtube, guidebooks) and also plan to working on building proper anchors on the ground when I get my order and learning my gear.  


Submitted By: Brian Anderson
Location: Colorado Partners



Post re: FS: 5.10 Team VXI, $80 shipped (PRICE DROP)

2017-09-25T14:36:57-06:00

EDIT: Price drop


Submitted By: Lavran Johnson
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T14:33:32-06:00

There is no etiquette with anything anymore.  Driving, skiing or whatever.  I can't tell you how many times doors have been let go in my face or no thank you given when I hold the door for someone else.

Most people are just assholes.  Of course there are a few that are still decent, but most people are completely self absorbed. 


Submitted By: Scott McMahon
Location: General Climbing



Post re: El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Dec 27-Jan 8 (or around those dates)

2017-09-25T14:32:34-06:00

Nick.shaon3512@ gmail.com 

im game for splitting a place


Submitted By: Nick Shaon
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post: FS: BD Vipers (pair), ThermaRest NeoAir XLite Women's

2017-09-25T14:31:40-06:00

BD Vipers: Older generation (before orange generation), two hammers with single pinky rest on each tool, used on waterfall ice and the occasional mixed move. No dry tooling or dedicated mixed climbing. Picks have been sharpened. Climbing tape on shafts was added for insulation at high altitude and can be removed before shipping if desired. Awesome tool to get into ice climbing on the cheap, and fully capable of climbing up through WI5. $150 for both. Pick-up in WNY or Massachusetts, or you pay shipping.

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20839"> 

NeoAir: 1 year old, used in good condition. Always used inside tents with foam pad underneath. One small leak near (but not on) valve has been repaired with seamgrip, ripstop, and an outer coating of duct tape for good measure. Tested after repair for 30 days in the field with no leaking. $85, same pick-up or shipping options as the tools.

More photos available on request.


Submitted By: Pamola
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post: FS: g14s

2017-09-25T14:31:19-06:00

Grivel G14s used a handful of days for a single skimo trip, still in very good condition(no mixed). 140$ you pay shipping (or local pickup in boston, ma or boulder,co

thanks for looking
(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20846">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20847">


Submitted By: ben rosenberg
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T14:30:37-06:00

amarius wrote:

Impact Force - 

F= m*v/t - m is mass, v is speed, t time it takes to go from v to 0.

F = dP/dt. P is impulse, t is time.

Force is not a constant. Force is a momental physical value. It exists (OK, it does not exist, but it does exist in a contex of some physical model) at exact point and exact time.


Submitted By: Pavel Burov
Location: General Climbing



Post: Petzl Screw Sharpener

2017-09-25T14:29:07-06:00

Looking for thoughts (pro/con) from anyone who has used the Petzl screw sharpener? 


Submitted By: Mike Gillam
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T14:28:20-06:00

susan peplow wrote:

And as we like to say.. "all these climbers are ruining climbing".

As others have noted, it seems people just don't know better.  I don't believe they're setting out to be dopes lacking protocol they just haven't learned otherwise.  The litter discussion should have started with Mom but in regards to climbing.... lack of mentors is a problem.

Perhaps "should have started in childhood"?

Thanks. 

Best, OLH, also known as the highly generic personage "Mom", the root source of every evil, annoying, illegal or degenerate act her child commits, no matter their age, except most of the fun ones "Mom" had to give up to raise the parasitic nuisance in the first place.

Not my own child, of course. You people. You know who you are.


Submitted By: Old lady H
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T14:27:21-06:00

Impact Force - 

F= m*v/t - m is mass, v is speed, t time it takes to go from v to 0. 

If we have distance L to stop - think climber legs going from extended to squat upon impact, L=a*t*t/2, a - acceleration. Assume constant acceleration a=v/t; L=v*t/2. Plug it back in F=m*v*v/2/L.

Or, simply put,  force of impact is proportional to speed squared - F~V*V;

If you come in with 10% more speed, impact is going to be 20% harder.

 



Submitted By: amarius
Location: General Climbing



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T14:26:30-06:00

I wasn't climbing in the early 2000s but I do know one thing for sure, leading by example is the best option here. Maybe some of that old school climbing etiquette will rub off. Even if it doesn't you can feel good about doing your part in cleaning up. In regard to gym climbers ruining everything, sure it sucks to wait in line for a route and it's an issue when people are being unsafe (standing in fall zones and whatnot) but I don't think it's unreasonable to ask people to reconsider their habits for safety reasons. I've asked people to move because they were causing a safety issue. Nobody goes out climbing thinking "I'm going to injure someone today."


Submitted By: Mike Cherneski
Location: General Climbing



Post re: FS: Arcteryx Beta, Five Ten shoes, Tricams, Etriers, and more..

2017-09-25T14:25:52-06:00

I'll take the the pas and procord


Submitted By: james godwin
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: FS: NEW 5.10 Stonelands Lace up SIZE 10/43 $25

2017-09-25T14:23:25-06:00

Hi, what's your street shoes size ? How do they size?


Submitted By: David Fu
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: One month to train for Indian Creek 5.12 advice?

2017-09-25T14:21:01-06:00

Sounds like you are doing it right with regard to Mocs. 


Submitted By: JCM
Location: Training Forum






Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:20:12-06:00

Sean - what would you say to bundling your cobras and G22s for $400 total?

BC85 - I don't see any crampon photos in your profile?

Ben. - How much are you asking?


Submitted By: Dylan Demyanek
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: FS: Integral Design bivy sack and Rab sleeping bag

2017-09-25T14:19:28-06:00

bump prices lowered.


Submitted By: Greg Miller
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Climbing after a Total Knee Replacement

2017-09-25T14:17:11-06:00

There is a prior thread on this subject.  You can probably find it if you search. 

To answer your questions:  

-8 weeks to be on the wall, 12 weeks to start pushing it. This may vary from p-to-p.

-rocking over/high stepping not a problem -- actually helps rehab the operative knee.  the stability of the new joint is awesome. 

-cannot completely fold up leg/sit on it -- the artificial joint isn't made to do that (which is why it is so stable and why you no longer have an ACL -- knee cannot hyperextend)

-heel hook hell yes -- much better than pre-op.  be careful & listen to your leg in rehab period, probably.

no, everything is soooo much better.  work hard on your physical therapy and you'll be a happy climber. 




Submitted By: QdeBees
Location: Injuries and Accidents



Post: Standard trad rack for arkansas

2017-09-25T14:16:11-06:00

What would you guys consider a standard rack for horseshoe canyon or sams throne? Thanks


Submitted By: Austin Russell
Location: Midwest



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:15:02-06:00

Hi Dylan,

I'm in FC too and have some stuff that I'd part with. Send me a PM and maybe we can meet up. I climb at Ascent 1 or more days/week.

Joe


Submitted By: Joe Prescott
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T14:14:30-06:00

Ah- I’m following now.  I need assistance from time to time.  Thanks!


Submitted By: Jake Jones
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Ropeman

2017-09-25T14:14:09-06:00

I  use a ropeman 2 fo TR solo and love it! It is small, but so are my fingers so it's not an issue. 


Submitted By: Leslie McG
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: BBQ sauce on rope

2017-09-25T14:10:54-06:00

Jon Frisby wrote:

This gets dangerous with climbing-calloused hands

Bag balm does wonders 


Submitted By: Eric Castanza
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Dec 27-Jan 8 (or around those dates)

2017-09-25T14:09:23-06:00

Hey nick helen and Malcolm, why dont we start an email thread? Mine is johnjackson1191@gmail. 


Submitted By: John Adam Jackson
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:09:13-06:00

I've got some Grivel Quantum Tech Ice Tools that I'm selling if you're interested. They're great for alpine.


Submitted By: Ben.
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: FS: Arcteryx Beta, Five Ten shoes, Tricams, Etriers, and more..

2017-09-25T14:07:57-06:00

Lots of great gear still available!


Submitted By: Dan Allard
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:06:07-06:00

I've got a pair I'd let go for $80. Check my profile for pictures. Petzl sarkens in pretty great shape besides a little surface rust that I'll clean up. Let me know! 



Submitted By: BC85
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: FS: La Sportiva Testarossas size 38, $90 shipped

2017-09-25T14:05:46-06:00

trade me your Quantums or TC Pros?


Submitted By: Todd Anderson
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:05:08-06:00

I have a pair of grivel G22's I'd sell for $100.


Submitted By: Sean H
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T14:04:52-06:00

Jake Jones wrote:

I rewatched the vid, and you're right.  However, as I understand the term "impact force" it is exactly as you state.  The force felt by the climber.  If this is the case, then wouldn't the point at which the "bounce" as they refer to it, i.e. the lowest point in the model, be impact force?  Even if it's not outright stated or measured specifically, that point is definitely inferred.  Not trying to be a pedantic ass, I'm genuinely asking.  My physics can accurately be described as "rusty" or rudimentary, so I'll concede if for no other reason than you seem to have a superior understanding of it.

What I'm referring to specifically is what I've circled.  Aren't those points essentially "impact force"?

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20838">

If they were looking for the "impact" flet by the gear (i.e. the tension in the rope), you'd be correct. By taking the derivative of the velocity, you'd be able to determine the acceleration of the climber (and by taking mass into account, you'd have the actual forces involved.) The areas you have circled are the peak accelerations (or rather, decelerations) for those 2 falls, and would be the "impact" experienced by the gear and harness.

However, from the video, it seems that the impact force they're concerned with is the impact with from the pendulum-swing into the wall. They don't have an actual wall here, but they stop their graph at an imaginary vertical line (the dotted line), and display the horizontal velocity at that point. They've done runs with different lateral offsets from the "wall", and with varying amounts of slack in the system. They then expand on this by including the hop for a soft catch. As mentioned upthread, and alluded to in the video, they're not worrying about the actual tension in the rope; it's the velocity with which you hit the wall that does the damage in a pendulum swing.


Submitted By: Andrew Krajnik
Location: General Climbing



Post re: One month to train for Indian Creek 5.12 advice?

2017-09-25T14:04:46-06:00

Awesome, thanks for such a thorough reply. What you're saying totally makes sense and I'll probably do that instead of the regular campus boarding. 


The shoe game is something I've been trying to figure out for a while. My go-to for anything smeary/thin are Moccs and I just went up a half size to see if that might help fit them into even smaller things which (I think?) works a little better but definitely sacrifices edging. How do you size yours? With my previous pair, my knuckles were a little curled and the new pair are pretty much totally flat so that if I curl my toes there's some dead space in the toe box. Good to know for Cat Burglar though, I'll try to remember that if I ever sack up enough for it haha. I just got on Puma a couple days ago! I was dumb and placed in a lock at the very top but yeah, fun climb and a lot less painful than some of the more campusy finger cracks I've been on. 


Submitted By: Michael Hasson
Location: Training Forum



Post re: SOLD: La Sportiva TC Pros, 41.5

2017-09-25T14:04:18-06:00

Sold, thanks!


Submitted By: Todd Anderson
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:03:12-06:00

I am looking for either full-auto or semi-auto. Thanks for the clarification!


Submitted By: Dylan Demyanek
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T14:02:24-06:00

Jake Jones wrote:

I rewatched the vid, and you're right.  However, as I understand the term "impact force" it is exactly as you state.  The force felt by the climber.  If this is the case, then wouldn't the point at which the "bounce" as they refer to it, i.e. the lowest point in the model, be impact force?  


Creators of this video are concerned with forces that a climber feels when impacting THE WALL. That force goes as ~V*V, V being speed normal to the impacting surface. They use pixels per frame/second since that particular measure is directly proportional to velocity.



Submitted By: amarius
Location: General Climbing



Post re: WTB: Ice Tools, Crampons, and Alpine Climbing gear in General

2017-09-25T14:01:23-06:00

What is "binding style"?  Folks generall refer to full auto (step-in), strap-on, or semi-auto (strap toes, lever at heel).


Submitted By: Gunkiemike
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post: Arco, Italia now

2017-09-25T14:01:08-06:00

Looking for a sport climbing partner for the Arco area. Traveling light with no rope or draws. Hope to climb easy stuff, up to 6c-ish.  Email kirksquier@cox.net or respond on MP. Thanks!


Submitted By: Kirk Squier
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post re: Great Online Deals Thread

2017-09-25T14:01:08-06:00

I've found this made a great stick clip pole (just add spring clamp) and is a bit cheaper than painter's poles I saw:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026MTCRM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >amazon.com/gp/product/B0026MTC...

*and lighter, too


Submitted By: Jonathan Awerbuch
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: FS Zamberlan Expert Pro GTX Ice/Mountaineering Boots S44

2017-09-25T13:55:50-06:00

Bump... Price drop. $150.00 takes them


Submitted By: Just Solo
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Sport climber looking to get first trad rack.

2017-09-25T13:52:34-06:00

Hey Guys, I found a great deal here in Canada through MEC (REI) gear swap!

I picked up the following for 360$ CAD.

2x 0.75 C4

2x #1 C4

2x #2 C4

2x #3 C4

2x #4 C4


I realize that I'm missing smaller cams, so does anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking of just picking up 0.3 0.4 0.5 C4, but maybe I could pick up a few totems to replace these sizes? Anyone have any suggestions?

In addition to the cams, I'll be picking up a set of DMM Wallnuts, and will have a total of 6x yellow dyneema bd alpine quickdraws, 6x regular quickdraws, and a nut tool.




Submitted By: Will B
Location: Trad Climbing



Post re: download all photos for an area?

2017-09-25T13:51:09-06:00

I think I am having this problem too. On android it looks like the photos downloaded successfully but then when I am offline they are not there.

There are getting to be a lot of photos of some popular routes and areas. It would be nice to be able to download just pics of the routes and leave out the pics of summit glory, belay ledge parties, pint glasses, pizza slices, crag dogs, snakes, sunsets, etc. This would probably require users to do a better job of coding the pics as beta or not beta though.


Submitted By: Justin Meyer
Location: iPhone & Android App Feedba...



Post re: Chalk bag belt of cord?

2017-09-25T13:47:43-06:00

I have used a cord to hold the chalk bag for many years and on at least 3 occasions it was very convenient and once very important. I also carry a cold shut or leaver carabiner.

I wrote on MP about the crucial incident once before but don’t have time to search for it now. We had climbed a short moderate route that had a 3rd class down climb. A sudden lightning storm blew in. The heavy rain blocked off the down climb. We were able to thread the cord through a hole and make an immediate rappel from a dangerous situation-lightning striking the top of the cliff. It would have been difficult to get other material through the hole.

Thanks to those suggesting better ways to tie the cord.

Rob.calm


Submitted By: rob.calm
Location: Beginning Climbers



Post re: Looking for climbing adventure advice December '17/Jan'18

2017-09-25T13:42:11-06:00

Ahhh, South Africa... possible next hit for us! 

I agree with the fellas above.  Joshua Tree and surrounding areas (there are some sport crags withing 1+ hours with free camping), possible for Vegas (3 hours from Joshua Tree).  Southern AZ is where we head that time of year with the crisp nights but sunny and dreamy days.    

Happy Travels!  


Submitted By: susan peplow
Location: Southern Utah Deserts



Post re: download all photos for an area?

2017-09-25T13:42:10-06:00

grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

Here ya go

http://stores.sharpendbooks.com/indian-creek-a-climbing-guide-camalot-edition/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >stores.sharpendbooks.com/india...

I own this book and wish I could agree, but as I said the information on mountainproject is dramatically better than Bloom's book. I basically use Bloom to make sure I'm walking towards the right cliff. We generally left it in the car. Rife with errors and question marks, and often near impossible to identify the routes. Unbelievable that this book is in its 3rd edition and still at the level that it is.

Mountainproject, on the other hand, has awesome beta photos, great gear recommendations, and ongoing error correction. So I'm going route by route getting the photos at the crags we might hit, which was a one touch operation in the old app....


Submitted By: Optimistic
Location: iPhone & Android App Feedba...



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T13:41:37-06:00

Marc801 C wrote:

If you consider an index function, then base reference - ie: not a single piece of trash - is 1. Think of it as similar to the specific gravity of water, which is 1.000.

Then again 'not a single' could mean 'double'/'triple'/etc ... Hurrah for English!  ...


Submitted By: Mark Dalen
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T13:40:16-06:00

brenta wrote:

There's nothing in their experimental set-up that measures forces--e.g., a load cell.  They measure velocity in pixels per second with Adobe After Effects.  All the numbers they use to annotate their graphs are velocities in pixels/s.  Anything else would have to be inferred, but impact force is not even inferred.  The reason is that impact force is the decelerating force exerted by the rope on the falling climber by virtue of its tension.  (If we don't agree on this definition, all further discussion is pointless.)  In pendulum swings, especially without slack, that's not one's biggest concern--far from it. Also, in a pure pendulum  swing, the impact force is perpendicular to the velocity vector. Hence they rightly ignore impact force.

 

I rewatched the vid, and you're right.  However, as I understand the term "impact force" it is exactly as you state.  The force felt by the climber.  If this is the case, then wouldn't the point at which the "bounce" as they refer to it, i.e. the lowest point in the model, be impact force?  Even if it's not outright stated or measured specifically, that point is definitely inferred.  Not trying to be a pedantic ass, I'm genuinely asking.  My physics can accurately be described as "rusty" or rudimentary, so I'll concede if for no other reason than you seem to have a superior understanding of it.

What I'm referring to specifically is what I've circled.  Aren't those points essentially "impact force"?

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20838">


Submitted By: Jake Jones
Location: General Climbing



Post re: One month to train for Indian Creek 5.12 advice?

2017-09-25T13:39:04-06:00


Other notes:

Check your shoe situation. Are you wearing optimal shoes for IC thin cracks? I found that on the easier stuff at IC you can get away with non-optimal shoes, but once you step it up to the sustained 5.12 thin cracks you really need things to be ideal. This usually means Moccs, but not always. On a few of those routes the crack is too thin for feet and there are just enough face features that it is sometimes better to give up on jamming your feet and wear a stiff, tight edging shoe with a pointy toe (like a Miura or Katana Lace). An example would be Cat Burglar; on that one I found I had better luck edging on the little calcite features that trying to rand smear the finger crack.

For a fun (and gentler) warm up to IC finger cracks, check out Puma.


Submitted By: JCM
Location: Training Forum



Post re: Ropeman

2017-09-25T13:37:41-06:00

I use a petzl rescucender for ropes solos


Submitted By: Phil Powell
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post: FS: Mixed pair of Katana laces (44.5 L and 45 R)

2017-09-25T13:37:21-06:00

My left foot's bunion got a little worse from new boots during ice season last winter, so I replaced my 44.5 left Katana with a 45. These are in great shape - left 44.5 was resoled by Rock & Resole in December and has seen maybe a dozen pitches since. Right 45 is nearly fresh out of the Ebay box (paid $80 for the pair) and looks like it's seen even fewer pitches with no resoles. The opposite pair I'm keeping performed flawlessly all weekend. Tons of life and several resoles left in these.

$60 shipped

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20830">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20832">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20834">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20835">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20836">


Submitted By: Emmett Lyman
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Tahquitz areas/routes to be avoided?

2017-09-25T13:36:21-06:00

All of them.


Locals only braj.


Submitted By: Addem Bursh
Location: Southern California



Post re: Sterling rope going spongy

2017-09-25T13:36:13-06:00

Hi Nick, sounds like there may be too much cover, you might try lightly milking it the entire length. Make sure the end you milk to has the cut off, if it's melted, to allow the core and cover to equalize.  Let it set for a while after milking in case you did it too hard, the cover may retract a little.  Cut off the extra and reseal.


Submitted By: Brocky
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Smith Rock Sept 26-29ish

2017-09-25T13:35:53-06:00

Anyone out there who's interested in joining me to make even numbers? Emily's got partners lined up already. I live in Seattle and will probably drive down on Wednesday and climb this Thu-Sat (Sept 28-30). I lead sport at 5.10b and trad at 5.7. Very happy to belay and follow on harder stuff. I'll bring my rope, single trad track, and sport draws. PM me if you're interested!


Submitted By: Larissa Zhou
Location: Pacific Northwest Partners



Post: Tahquitz areas/routes to be avoided?

2017-09-25T13:31:51-06:00

Wanting to get some moderates in at Tahquitz. With some of the recent rock fall that has occurred, are there any areas/routes that should be avoided?


Submitted By: Brian morin
Location: Southern California



Post re: New Cliff Opening in Vermont! Help CRAG-VT Raise Money!

2017-09-25T13:31:43-06:00

Thanks Kris!  

The Bolton Dome is the tallest cliff in Bolton and has a huge variety of climbing from steep schist to slabby faces.  Think 82, Upper West, Upper Upper, and Carcass all rolled into one super cliff!  Also one can't argue with the 5 minute approach.  I urge everybody to help us to make this project a reality - you won't be disappointed!  At minimum, become a CRAG-VT member today and give us a leg up!!!



Submitted By: Seth Maciejowski
Location: Eastern States



Post: FS: Salewa Pro Guide 43; Women's TX3 Size 41.5

2017-09-25T13:31:32-06:00

Hey all!I have a pair of Salewa Pro Guide Mountaineering boots for sale, size 43. I'm asking for $200, but feel free to suggest a different offer. They are great boots that have a lot of life left in them. The allen slot for the "walk/climb" mode is a little stripped, but functional. I almost never used the walk mode, and I don't necessarily recommend using that function of the boot. However, they climb ice great. I've used them through Nepal ice climbing and in Hyalite and they've performed great in both areas. I'll throw in a bottle of seam grip to reseal the seams, as I never have.Also selling a pair of women's La Sportiva TX3, size  41.5. I'm asking $100 since they are like new (used maybe 3 times). My girlfriend bought them and realized they are the wrong size. Willing to negotiate price on those as well. PayPal with shipping included. Submitted By: Parker WEbbLocation: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...[...]



Post re: One month to train for Indian Creek 5.12 advice?

2017-09-25T13:29:40-06:00

Re: Campusing

I see what you're getting at with including campusing, based on the bad feet on IC finger cracks, but I don't think that campus board work is neccesarily the right choice here. A typical workout on the campus board (max ladders, bumps, etc) emphasizes explosive power for a short number of dynamic moves. Not really what you need for the Creek. None of those routes have that sort of explosive crux, and the duration of the cruxes is a lot longer than what you'll be doing foot-off on the campus board.

Probably more useful than the campus board would be something like lock-off laps on a systems board, treadwall, etc. Think a slightly overhanging board, OK holds, deep static lockoffs, and the worst footholds on the board (i.e. wear pointy shoes and stand in bolt holes). On each move, hover the reaching hand over the next hold for a 5-count before grabbing it. This will train the more static lockoffs encountered on IC finger cracks, and will also engage your core for transferring pressure down into bad footholds. Aim for longer sets than what you would do on a campus board; around 15 moves is probably a good start, and reflects the length you often have to climb between rests (a good foothold, a hand jam, etc) on some of those routes. So if your wall is around 5 moves tall, three consecutive laps, dropping off in between, would work out pretty well. You could also do a similar excercise on a campus board, but doing foot-on campusing with deep static locks.

Anyway, otherwise the plan looks good. Lock-off laps, ARCing, laps on whatever cracks (gym or outside) you have access to, and some supporting strength work (core, should stability, and some supplemental pull/lock work (offset pull ups are good). Make sure to include some "normal" climbing and bouldering too.


Submitted By: JCM
Location: Training Forum



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T13:28:45-06:00

And as we like to say.. "all these climbers are ruining climbing".

As others have noted, it seems people just don't know better.  I don't believe they're setting out to be dopes lacking protocol they just haven't learned otherwise.  The litter discussion should have started with Mom but in regards to climbing.... lack of mentors is a problem.

On a recent trip to Kalymnos, the place is filled with climbers from all over the globe.  Some areas are crowded, others not.  Everyone makes due and either moves along or is able to climb together without issue.    

With exception of this couple from Boston, USA.  On a wall that has multiple lines to choose from selects a route next to ours.  No biggy except that our particular route shared the last 4 bolts and anchor of the route they wanted to get on.  I communicated this to Russ to pass along to the base crew (which he did).  I also noted that the route wasn't that good and to speed things up I'd strip it on the way down if they could give me a few minutes.  NOPE!  Dude starts climbing and sure as shit had me waiting to come down as he was gripped out and he'd be wearing my ass as a hat as I lowered onto him.    

WTH right?  Not only did we tell him the route would have a collision with one that we were already on, but we offered to speed up the process by having my partner skip his turn.  I found this to be beyond rude and once down my old-lady, you guys are dicks attitude was pretty evident.  

Did they do this on purpose?  Probably not and could tell by their climbing style and ability level they just didn't know better.  But geesh, we people give you clues.... follow them!


Submitted By: susan peplow
Location: General Climbing









Post: FS: Patagonia Down Sweater (new) $170 shipped

2017-09-25T13:23:59-06:00

Size Medium
(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="20827">


Selling this guy - only worn once. Retail is $220! Paintbrush Red color, with a navy blue interior.

http://www.patagonia.com/product/mens-down-sweater-jacket/84674.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >patagonia.com/product/mens-dow...


Submitted By: Taylor Lapeyre
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T13:22:36-06:00

Jake Jones wrote:

What is measured at the lowest point of the fall is very much impact force.  There is no wall that they're hitting in the vid.  They may be concerned with it, but what is actually being measured is the impact force.  Not to be confused with the impact of the climber against an object- of which there is none in this scenario.

There's nothing in their experimental set-up that measures forces--e.g., a load cell.  They measure velocity in pixels per second with Adobe After Effects.  All the numbers they use to annotate their graphs are velocities in pixels/s.  Anything else would have to be inferred, but impact force is not even inferred.  The reason is that impact force is the decelerating force exerted by the rope on the falling climber by virtue of its tension.  (If we don't agree on this definition, all further discussion is pointless.)  In pendulum swings, especially without slack, that's not one's biggest concern--far from it. Also, in a pure pendulum  swing, the impact force is perpendicular to the velocity vector. Hence they rightly ignore impact force.

 


Submitted By: brenta
Location: General Climbing



Post re: 9/25 - 10/1 Northeast Trad

2017-09-25T13:19:19-06:00

I ended up heading down to Seneca this week, but maybe another weekend this fall
Submitted By: Sara Paradis
Location: North Eastern States Partne...




Post: Frenchman Coulee or other central WA 9/26-9/29

2017-09-25T13:18:01-06:00

Looking for partner to get on moderate gear routes with at Frenchman Coulee some time between tomorrow 9/26 and Friday 9/29. I have gear, rope and 3 years leading experience on gear (Currently leading ~5.9 following 10d). I'm also open to Leavenworth or whatever else is around central Washington, I just wanna climb!

Shoot me a text if you're interested in linking up. 71tree - five77 - 9fore3fore

-Mike


Submitted By: Michael DeNicola
Location: Pacific Northwest Partners



Post re: Pawtuckaway chalk-bombed

2017-09-25T13:15:01-06:00

I've always head of 1'+ tick marks being referred to as "Connecticut" ticks since the late 90's, Soooo being that you're in lovely Raymond/Nottingham, it's only logical that those came from Connecticut, or Europeans of course.  


Submitted By: Redyns
Location: Eastern States



Post re: Boise area partners!!! Indoor/outdoor, regular, irregular....

2017-09-25T13:13:30-06:00

Bumping this now that I've met some of you at the Idaho Mountain Festival!

Please text me, if you are willing to add me into your partner lineup. 

Best, Helen


Submitted By: Old lady H
Location: Northern Utah & Idaho



Post re: WTB/Trade: -20 or lower sleeping bag.

2017-09-25T13:12:37-06:00

I have a Mountain Hardwear Lamina -15 degree sleeping bag. Never used with tags. I can send pictures when I get home. If you're interested, shoot me a message. 


Submitted By: Adam Hammershoi
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post: Get out in the sunshine tomorrow (Tuesday) ?

2017-09-25T13:07:42-06:00

Looking to get out in the good weather tomorrow morning. I'm good with Clear Creek, Table Top, Eldo, ...whatever really. I'll lead trad to 5.9, sport to 5.11, or follow harder/softer.

PM or message at 20.572.eightonethreetuu


Submitted By: AHLEV
Location: Colorado Partners



Post re: El Potrero Chico, Mexico: Dec 27-Jan 8 (or around those dates)

2017-09-25T13:07:02-06:00

Hello everyone,


It looks like a nice little group could form here.  Where is everyone thinking of staying?  I was down in Mexico last season and in my personal opinion Ariél's Cabin are the nicest and best located accommodations.  Would anyone be interested in splitting the cost?  Their largest room has 2 double and one double bunk bed, also has a couch and an extra mattress that can be set up on the floor.  It also has a kitchen, dining room table, shower, and picnic table outside.


And was very reasonably priced! 



Submitted By: Malcolm Ferguson
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T13:06:19-06:00

Serge Smirnov wrote:

It worries me that the authors seem to be using just one model.

... But I'm still skeptical of a rope model that doesn't specify which rope it is for.

I guess Dei and Ben would say that if you want them to use different rope models, you need to subscribe to their patreon page.

I share your skepticism.  All I can say is that I chose values of the viscoelastic model parameters that give a reasonable elongation for both the static and the dynamic test.

But the main message I read in those simulations is that it's very difficult to estimate the optimal slack value even for a specific rope.


Submitted By: brenta
Location: General Climbing






Post: tahoe area crag/boulder partners

2017-09-25T13:04:47-06:00

moved up here recently, pushing in to 5.10's on gear, little harder sport, bouldering v5, and psyched! i prefer climbing during the week. 


Submitted By: jlee
Location: Northern California Partner...



Post re: Normal ice climber behavior?

2017-09-25T13:01:26-06:00

Depends on his level of clothing. If he's in full shell attire, I'd say you're fine...if he's only wearing wool socks and some Nepals, you might want to keep your distance until the ice fattens up a bit.


Submitted By: Sam Sala
Location: General Climbing



Post re: oct 1-11: east and southeast Europe

2017-09-25T13:00:44-06:00

Michal Orczyk wrote:

Oh and I have October 2-7 free

I sent you a PM


Submitted By: atavist
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post re: Great Online Deals Thread

2017-09-25T12:59:08-06:00

clint helander wrote:  HEY EVERYONE...STOP POSTING GENERAL CHIT-CHAT HERE. THIS IS NOT A THREAD FOR CONVERSATION OR ARGUMENTS. THIS IS A THREAD FOR POSTING DEALS ONLY. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A LINK FOR A DEAL...DO. NOT. POST. THIS THREAD HAS REALLY DEGRADED A LOT OVER THE LAST FEW WEEKS. KEEP IT TIGHT.



Submitted By: Jake wander
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Aconcagua summit clothing

2017-09-25T12:57:54-06:00

Have a pair of Wild Things belay Bibs in size large for $100 plus shipping. I'll cover PayPal. Grey. Primaloft insulation. 



Submitted By: luke Lydiard
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion






Post re: Easy Multi-Pitch Sport Routes In the Bay Area?

2017-09-25T12:51:42-06:00

Check out mount Helena in the north bay 


Submitted By: Nick Lozica
Location: Northern California



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T12:50:12-06:00

jason.cre wrote:


All of these cases are examples of falls from a top rope scenario with slack out?  Or am I missing something? 

Not necessarily top rope.  Imagine the leader clipping a bolt where the red dot is and then climbing out left toward the lip of the roof.  There may be other anchors between the belayer and the leader, but their effect is ignored.  Think of them all being perfectly lined up and frictionless. 

You can also regard these as examples of top-rope falls in which the climber has strayed from the correct line and is now level with the anchor, but off to a side.


Submitted By: brenta
Location: General Climbing



Post: Trad, Sport partner next 3 days TN, or NC

2017-09-25T12:49:40-06:00

Hi I'm driving through TN and NC the next few days and am keen to climb. I know it's still a bit hot so I'm also into aiding some classics at looking glass or finding shade at Deep Creek around Chattanooga. Anything goes as far as grades usually stick to mid 11's on gear around these parts and sport whatever we can get the draws back from. Let me know I'm totally open to meeting you.

Have plenty of gear for any endeavor that whets your palate. nickdhulster@gmail.com 904-five53- eight57one


Submitted By: Nick D'Hulster
Location: South Eastern States Partne...



Post re: Wtb: men's large insulated / lined hooded soft shell (e.g. Patagonia Adze Hybrid Hoody, Gamma MX, etc)

2017-09-25T12:49:09-06:00

I have a used Large Stoic Welder Hi in Grey/Carbon. I'd say condition is 7/10. I'd like to get $70 for it. You pay shipping, I'll cover PayPal. I'll get some photos up if you are interested.


Submitted By: luke Lydiard
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Soft catch vs. hard catch video analysis

2017-09-25T12:48:32-06:00

brenta wrote:

For eli: They are not talking about impact force; instead, they are concerned with the speed at which you hit the (vertical) wall and they assume unbreakable bolts.


What is measured at the lowest point of the fall is very much impact force.  There is no wall that they're hitting in the vid.  They may be concerned with it, but what is actually being measured is the impact force.  Not to be confused with the impact of the climber against an object- of which there is none in this scenario.


Submitted By: Jake Jones
Location: General Climbing



Post: Found watch at Eagle Mtn

2017-09-25T12:46:50-06:00

Describe it and I'll get it back to you.


Submitted By: Emmett Lyman
Location: Lost and Found



Post re: WTB: Double boots or supergaiters EU43

2017-09-25T12:45:04-06:00

I have three pairs of La Sportiva boots for sale. All are size 44.0. Free shipping!Silver Bullets-very light use-$225Primes-also very light use-$225Batura 2.0-moderate wear-crack in the toe welt-$250Submitted By: luke LydiardLocation: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...[...]



Post re: FS: Belay Glasses, 120cm runners, misc non-locking carabiners, metolious wood grips

2017-09-25T12:44:51-06:00

Slings and belay glasses have been sold.

Thanks!


Submitted By: Pete Krzanowsky
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Allamuchy state park nj

2017-09-25T12:44:17-06:00

For the Main Wall, you have to scramble up and build gear anchors. 


Submitted By: Michael C
Location: Eastern States



Post re: Pawtuckaway chalk-bombed

2017-09-25T12:43:31-06:00

Damn gym rats!!!


Submitted By: Christopher Gagne
Location: Eastern States



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T12:40:57-06:00

1990, Few climbers - 0 hot toaster strudels left at crag... 2017, x4 climbers x4 hot toaster strudels = 4 toaster strudels for me? 


Submitted By: Sandbagger Vance
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Normal ice climber behavior?

2017-09-25T12:35:38-06:00

Graham Johnson wrote:

I'd say he was weird if he didn't do that...

There are two types of ice climbers. 

Those who play with their tools and those who lie about not playing with their tools.


Submitted By: Jason Todd
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Suggestions for crack climbing near golden CO

2017-09-25T12:33:18-06:00

Lookout Mountain Crag has a handful of moderate short cracks


Submitted By: Amy Nguyen
Location: Colorado



Post re: Outdoor Research Furio Jacket Size L - $115 shipped

2017-09-25T12:29:38-06:00

Added some more pics of the jacket and lowered price 


Submitted By: SammyP
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Can anyone name this route from garden of the gods?

2017-09-25T12:27:20-06:00

Thanks guys!


Submitted By: JD Borgeson
Location: Colorado



Post re: Great Online Deals Thread

2017-09-25T12:26:31-06:00

Weston L wrote:

I'm also in the boat of folks who no longer get the good discounts e-mailed to me.  I wonder if it is because of a certain dollar amount of redemption linked to that account that it decides to no longer send those e-mails? I wonder if I used an alternative e-mail account if it would send the goods again.

They changed they way they provide discounts. You won't get anything better with a different email unfortunately... 


Submitted By: JoeyJa
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post: Found-Shoes: Minimum, Maple Canyon 9/22

2017-09-25T12:25:57-06:00

ID to claim


Submitted By: bryan wert
Location: Lost and Found



Post re: Great Online Deals Thread

2017-09-25T12:25:05-06:00

Gunkiemike wrote:

Some people still get them; I don't any longer (after getting them for years). And the codes that I've tried in the last week or so - I've tried 4 of them so far - don't apply to the rope I'm after.  Boo.

The 45% offs that actually apply to a wide variety of items just don't exist anymore. Best I've seen that works on most items (with multiple email accounts) is free/$1 shipping plus 25% off. Still some great deals to be had though


Submitted By: JoeyJa
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post: Has the ability to contribute been removed?

2017-09-25T12:24:05-06:00

Using the Android app, I can't seem to add comments on routes or upload photos.


Submitted By: Heather Williams
Location: iPhone & Android App Feedba...



Post re: What the hell happened to climbing etiquette

2017-09-25T12:22:12-06:00

5.Seven-Kevin wrote:

I'm a climber so my math sucks, but if your crag had not a single piece of trash, and you multiplied it by 4.....


Isn't it still 0? 

If you consider an index function, then base reference - ie: not a single piece of trash - is 1. Think of it as similar to the specific gravity of water, which is 1.000.


Submitted By: Marc801 C
Location: General Climbing



Post: Phoenix area partner/partners needed

2017-09-25T12:18:59-06:00

I have just moved to the Phoenix area and I am looking for some partners to climb outdoors.  I have an SPI certification through the AMGA and a WFR through NOLS.  I enjoy both Trad and Sport climbing both multi and single pitch.  Currently my stoke is pointing me in the direction of the McDowell mountains, specifically Gardener's Wall and Tom's Thumb, and some longer routes in Cochise Stronghold.  I would also be interested in climbing at Camelback Mountain as it is my closest climbing area and I have not done everything yet.  I comfortably sport lead in the 5.11 range and comfortably lead 5.10 in trad.  Reply if interested or email me at nemchick001@gmail.com


Submitted By: Jacob Nemchick
Location: Arizona & New Mexico Partne...