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The Definitive Resource for the Climbing and Mountaineering Community



 



Post re: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T21:55:53-07:00

Already emailed yah, just need to know how to oay


Submitted By: Ice4life
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: TUESDAY RESCUE 10/17/17 STONEY POINT.... WE HAVE ALL OF YOUR GEAR.

2017-11-20T21:54:13-07:00

Guy Keesee wrote:

News Flash.... !!!!


The gear has been returned to the rightful owner. 

He received almost 300 bee stings!  OUCH   ' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs... 

Thank you to everyone who shared the tale.... word got around. 






Wow! My rope burn feels better already. I have no idea what 300 stings would feel like.


Submitted By: Joe Garibay
Location: Southern California



Post re: FS-Petzl Nomics (new)

2017-11-20T21:54:11-07:00

I'd buy these for $300



Submitted By: Earl Lunceford
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: FS BD C4 .3 and .4

2017-11-20T21:52:36-07:00

Sold


Submitted By: beantown
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Climbing at the New (comic)

2017-11-20T21:51:08-07:00

"What It's Like to Climb at the New if You've Only Ever Climbed at the Red and the Gym."


Submitted By: Ryan McDermott
Location: Southern States



Post re: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T21:48:51-07:00

Sound good Josh. I’ll be back home on thurs and could send them then


Submitted By: Norman Bradley
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T21:40:19-07:00

If ice4life falls through, I’ll take em


Submitted By: Joshb4
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Tennessee Monterey Crag not on Mountain Project

2017-11-20T21:39:25-07:00

NOFF wrote:

I could be totally wrong about this, but from what I understand, Monterey Crag is private property. At least the top access is. There are some lots for sale there, and I think the owner gave a couple of locals permission at one time. I'm sure the reason it's not on MP, is to keep the limited access open for now. 

It is private property, all the climbing locals go though, owners allow it thanks to some cool laws releasing them of liability.


Submitted By: Dragan Ramsey
Location: Southern States



Post re: Tennessee Monterey Crag not on Mountain Project

2017-11-20T21:38:36-07:00

Jon Teaford wrote:

What is the Monterey Crag of it is not Bee Rock?  I would love to find i Monterey Crag if anyone has the location.

East on 62 a few miles past Bee Rock, right hand turn and then right hand turn onto a dead end road. Outdoor Experience in Cookeville can give better directions than me, I grew up here and use landmarks, sorry.


Submitted By: Dragan Ramsey
Location: Southern States



Post re: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T21:36:41-07:00

Sounds great. Let’s do it


Submitted By: Norman Bradley
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Is Living in Anahiem Good for Climbers?

2017-11-20T21:34:20-07:00

Guy Keesee wrote:

seriously...the worst thing about LA is having a long commute. If you can get to work quickly that frees up a whole heck of a lot personal time. 

I cringe at the thought of the San Diego drive back from the Mts....   Im 3 hours from Lone Pine, SD is 3 hours farther than that. 



Guy, I am in Encinitas (ok, technically not San Diego) and I am 4.5 hours from Lone Pine.  Anaheim is maybe 30 minutes closer, if you're lucky with traffic, which is a big IF.  You're exaggerating.

I know this all depends on where you live and work, but I'd bet that the average Angeleno spends an extra 2-3 commuting hours each week (at least) as compared to a San Diegan. Those hours add up, in terms of your sanity, your health, your exposure to risk, vehicle costs, etc.  Having lived in both cities for a long time, I really don't know why anyone would willingly choose LA.  I do understand why people stay in an undesirable city (job, family, etc.) but to willingly move there?  I don't get it.  


Submitted By: Jason Kim
Location: Southern California



Post re: FS BD C4 .3 and .4

2017-11-20T21:30:56-07:00

Is that homemade trigger wire a paper clip?


Submitted By: Alex Zucca
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Tips for Lead Belay

2017-11-20T21:26:03-07:00

Ted Pinson wrote:

5) Pay attention.  Lead belaying is much more active than toproping and requires focus as you constantly feed and take in slack based on the climber’s movements.

This is my #1 annoyance with belayers. Nothing kills my send like getting short roped and then looking down and seeing my belayer staring off or talking to someone.


Submitted By: David Kerkeslager
Location: Sport Climbing



Post: Joshua Tree for Thanksgiving weekend

2017-11-20T21:23:53-07:00

Hi,

Looking for a group/friend to go climb in Joshua Tree this Thursday, Friday & saturday.
Trad climbing, 5.9 range. I live in South Bay area, willing to drive down.

(408) 313-4457
Let me know,
Guillaume


Submitted By: Guillaume Legrain
Location: Northern California Partner...



Post: Joshua Tree for Thanksgiving weekend

2017-11-20T21:23:51-07:00

Hi,

Looking for a group/friend to go climb in Joshua Tree this Thursday, Friday & saturday.
Trad climbing, 5.9 range. I live in South Bay area, willing to drive down.

(408) 313-4457
Let me know,
Guillaume


Submitted By: Guillaume Legrain
Location: Southern California Partner...



Post re: Is Living in Anahiem Good for Climbers?

2017-11-20T21:23:00-07:00

Matt Himmelstein wrote:

I have lived in the greater LA area my whole life, and love it.  That being said, if I could afford it I would love to live in San Francisco or the Santa Barbara area, but those places are crazy expensive, even by LA standards.  Yeah, SD is about the same distance from Josh and Tahquitz, but I can get from the door to the slopes in an hour to Baldy (the only place worth skiing in So Cal IMO) and we are 2 hours closer to the Sierras.  We also have 1.5 pro football (2.5 if you count USC), 2 pro basketball, 2 pro hockey and 2 pro baseball teams, vs just the Padres in SD.

You're just confirming my suspicion about Stockholm syndrome, my friend.  I grew up in LA and know it well.  I've been to Baldy before, and you're right, it can be fun on those random 3 or 4 days a year that it gets hit with some weather and the crowds are all flocking to the other resorts.  But, really, if you care about skiing whatsoever, you're not going to choose LA as your home base, because that would be crazy.  The skiing in SoCal is awful, inconsistent, and crowded beyond belief.  Depending on where you are coming from in LA or SD, you may or may not be any closer to the Sierra, especially when you consider the traffic getting into and out of the area.  

I don't really watch sports much, so can't figure out if the 1.5 football thing is supposed to hurt my feelings, or what. If it's a dig at the Chargers, all I can say is that I'm glad they're gone and that I don't have to waste my tax dollars on the NFL stadium nonsense.


Submitted By: Jason Kim
Location: Southern California



Post re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen

2017-11-20T21:22:59-07:00

* OK for clarification, she was belaying off her harness with an ATC and as soon as she was in sight I was looking for and how she was belaying,  The rope wasn’t even being bent around the device ( usually where the teeth grooves are located).  So she was just pulling down on the rope, basically it looks like a rope Going up and through a Biner,  and then going  back straight down towards the ground ( like an upside down “ U “ shape. No bend, no friction to really catch anything. So a fall would just spin the rope wildly through to device until the follower decks and dies. There’s a chance the device will catch, but it’s no guarantee. Kinda like someone belaying from the base and just pulling the slack through going up, parallel with the lead rope, no bend in the rope around the belts device for that secure catch in the event of a fall. 

*The plugging the gear with slings Girth hitched to the belay loop thing you asked about.  I was in a situation where I knew in all likelihood the anchor the climber built was shit (based off seeing her pro placements while on lead). So to protect myself I had two slings, you place a piece of pro attached to the sling above you, then place another below you. Now you have 2 pieces in, you climb up, take the bottom piece out, with the above piece still placed, then unplug the lower piece and put it above the the piece that’s still in place. You “ladder pro” yourself. Always one piece in. It’s annoying but better than the situation the climber had put me in at the time. Longer slings just give more reach and makes it easier. 






Submitted By: David Vogel
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen

2017-11-20T21:16:53-07:00

Jason Kim wrote:

What's the problem belaying directly off your harness with an ATC? I also don't get the long slings and plugging gear thing.

Im guessing he means something similar to bumping cams above you on a hard offwidth, except going in direct to the pieces. 


Submitted By: Sam Miller
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Manchester NH gym

2017-11-20T21:16:23-07:00

I will, Nick! 


Submitted By: Mark Hudon
Location: Eastern States



Post re: FS BD C4 .3 and .4

2017-11-20T21:14:58-07:00

.4 available?


Submitted By: Chase Giltner
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Is Living in Anahiem Good for Climbers?

2017-11-20T21:13:23-07:00

Guy Keesee wrote:

LA is better than Phoenix .....   cause it's not nearly as hot and we have Stoney Point and you have "the beardsley boulders".... 

seriously...the worst thing about LA is having a long commute. If you can get to work quickly that frees up a whole heck of a lot personal time. 

I cringe at the thought of the San Diego drive back from the Mts....   Im 3 hours from Lone Pine, SD is 3 hours farther than that. 

The Sender one in Santa Anna is the best gym in the world.    IMHO only.


Guy, off topic but you need to try a new route on Vista Mt aka The Schmecklehorn.  10a approach pitch 10d/11a second pitch. There is a picture of it on the What Did You Climb Today thread on ST.  


Submitted By: Kevin Mokracek
Location: Southern California



Post re: FS BD C4 .3 and .4

2017-11-20T21:12:43-07:00

Payment sent for the .3!


Submitted By: Parker Lewis
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Dual rope raps getting tangled

2017-11-20T21:12:28-07:00

This probably has alot more to do with the ropes than anything else. I duel rope rappel all the time and never have the issue and toss both ropes at the same time. Depending on how you store the rope can sometimes make it twist up alot too.


Submitted By: ViperScale
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T21:10:47-07:00

Sold I'll buy em


Submitted By: Ice4life
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...






Post re: Seeking partner DC area to NRG, all points in between

2017-11-20T20:59:27-07:00

I’m free weekends for going outside! I lead 5.10 sport, trad around 5.8-9. I’m always up for weekend trips to Seneca, Sugarloaf Mt., Elizabeth Furnace, or the New and I don’t much mind the cold or getting up early. 


Submitted By: Lex Rodgers
Location: South Eastern States Partne...



Post re: Approach Trails and Approaches

2017-11-20T20:55:19-07:00

We will be adding the Approach Trails to the MP app in the next month or two.


Submitted By: Nick Wilder
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com



Post: Weekday AM Earth Treks partner.

2017-11-20T20:52:40-07:00

Working in Golden, looking to get a gym membership again and get some morning laps in 2-3x a week.  Could climb till about 8 or 815am.  Down for top-roping but lead belay experience preferred...  let’s get after it and spend some dark and cold winter mornings reminiscing about sendtember.


Submitted By: Shop tech
Location: Colorado Partners



Post: Petzl Quarks for sell

2017-11-20T20:52:37-07:00

Used 4-5 days. Just don’t ice climb any more.

$200(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28008">


Submitted By: Norman Bradley
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Joints and cold?

2017-11-20T20:52:29-07:00

Roll yourself a cone!


Submitted By: Luke Pace
Location: Injuries and Accidents






Post re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen

2017-11-20T20:50:22-07:00

What's the problem belaying directly off your harness with an ATC? I also don't get the long slings and plugging gear thing. 


Submitted By: Jason Kim
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Guide service for Red Rock bouldering?

2017-11-20T20:48:21-07:00

I know AAI guides boulders, but I believe that they require all clients to wear helmets while bouldering. 

You can also call red rock climbing center and see if their guide service will take you out. 

That said, this will be the busiest weekend of the year in red rock, so pads and spotters will not be in short supply anywhere in kraft. I would expect at least 150 to 200 people just on the front side on Saturday. 


Submitted By: John Wilder
Location: Nevada



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T20:44:18-07:00

AndrewArroz wrote:

I've had two labs who would fall into the "American" description and while both had enormous energy and drive, they were both very mellow and able to chill, also. Might actually be a gender thing you're seeing given mine were both female and that I know an "English" male lab who is hyper as hell. Can't stop humping everything in sight!


It absolutely could be gender related.  And of course there is a range of temperaments in both types.  Mostly I wanted to warn anyone thinking of getting a rescue lab and thinking of taking it to the crag,  that many of the labs, particularly young labs, that end up as rescues, end up there because they are of the more hyperactive tempermant.  They can still be great companions and buddies, and they are often wonderful for scent-work jobs (they need a job to do), but think carefully before adopting one to be your crag dog.


Submitted By: Meredith E.
Location: General Climbing



Post: Seeking partner DC area to NRG, all points in between

2017-11-20T20:42:25-07:00

Looking for a partner to train with in NOVA (evenings at Earth Treks Crystal City) and especially head outside with. I've been climbing since 1999 (before the party) - trad, sport, not into bouldering. I have a double rack to #4, a few ropes, etc...willing to teach, to an extent. I'm not a grade chaser, but more into fun, interesting climbing, and being outside. My happy place is 5.8-5.11 sport or trad, but up for harder or easier. 


Submitted By: Boodge Nomchompski
Location: South Eastern States Partne...



Post re: Dual rope raps getting tangled

2017-11-20T20:40:39-07:00

Firstly, i throw the ropes separately... with each rope, i hold about 1/3 of the rope, my partner the other 1/3,  the final 1/3 going back to the anchor. Throw the middle of the ropefirst, the end of the rope a millisecond after. Repeat with rope 2, keeping them 10 feet apart.  Works pretty good. 

On lower angled terrain where the ropes are more apt to tangle, I lower my partner, then rappel.  Have the ropes tied together, ready for rapping but instead, have your partner tie in to both ropes, , then lower them down off your harness with a redirect. They get down to whatever they are going , get secure, ropes are down, not a kink or anything, ready for you to rap and repeat. 


Submitted By: Ira O
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Tips for Lead Belay

2017-11-20T20:37:44-07:00

amarius wrote:

Start here -

youtube.com/watch?v=NJHVgkchcb...

nice video! Will watch it! Thanks!

>
Submitted By: John Mckinley
Location: Sport Climbing



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T20:37:08-07:00

AndrewArroz wrote:

Mellow dogs. The problem with dogs at crags is that their people go up routes and the poor dogs stress out at the bottom. Hence whining and barking and howling. Not good for anyone.

I have a lab. I only take her to the crag if I'm on a trip and MUST bring her with me. She's mellow and tends to go to sleep and not bug people. That's the kind of dog you want. 

yeah. I agree with you. 


Submitted By: John Mckinley
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Manchester NH gym

2017-11-20T20:35:44-07:00

Mark, if you're at Vertical Dreams in Manchester, look up Lee Hansche who works there.  He's a great guy and climbs anything anywhere (like you and Max back in the day).


Submitted By: Nick Grant
Location: Eastern States



Post re: el Chalten, Patagonia -- Beta on Moderate Alpine Routes

2017-11-20T20:33:03-07:00

Second that chalten is pretty intense. You have to move quick,keep your cool, and be ready to escape if needed.

But all those sport routes are pretty fun too. I don’t know if there is actually a guide specific to them, but there should almost always be a gaggle of climbers to ask. 

Second lo de trivi. Nice place. Good folks. 


Submitted By: TravisJBurke
Location: International



Post re: Joints and cold?

2017-11-20T20:30:34-07:00

Old lady H wrote:

Any one using knee wraps/sleeves of some sort, just to keep them warm?

Other than battery-operated or chemical warmers, for keeping joints warm nothing beats the continuing infusion and circulation of hot liquid reheated from your body core (as GunkieMike's experience shows).

So adding more clothing could help -- so long as it does not even slightly reduce blood circulation.

I'll guess that the important thing is get your knees through the first 10-15 minutes out in the cold -- after that I'd think the increased circulation of blood from exercise (in addition to whatever you normally would have worn on your legs for exercising in that situation) should be sufficient.

. . . (Toes in downhill ski boots are a special case, because the boots are _designed_ to constrict the foot -- so now you can purchase ski boots with battery electrical warmers built in).

Ken


Submitted By: kenr
Location: Injuries and Accidents



Post re: ARC'TERYX ATOM LT 9+/10 $125 + shipping

2017-11-20T20:28:42-07:00

Offers being considered. 


Submitted By: Brandon Groza
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen

2017-11-20T20:26:24-07:00

Oh ya I Forgot about this one. I meet a climber from MP for the first time in Joshua tree. I asked her before hand how long she had been specifically  been leading Trad, she responded by saying 10 years. That definitely put my mind at ease. I also spoke with her over the phone to feel things out and things seemed legit, personally I get sketched out when climbing with people I don’t know.We start the day off in J Tree and when I ask her what she wants to lead, she says basically that she’s down to just follow the first half of the day and since she doesn’t know the park and I’m more familiar with the area, etc...So the last climb of the day she goes for a lead, which had to be on the easier side, it felt like 5.6ish.I start cleaning, mostly mid to large size nuts that have almost no surface Area Contact with the rock,  most of them less than quarter/half the size of a penny with the rock, this measurement is counting both sides of the nut placement. Zero of the nuts  places would have held her in a fall. Also the 2 cams she placed both had 3 lobes with 1 completely tipped put. The area of the other 3 lobes were unequal... all over the place, mostly also nearly tipped out. guaranteed not to hold. At this point I am certain the anchor she built was total shit. So I girth hitched 2 long slings to my belay Loop and plugged Gear above and below as I was climbing. Didn’t see the possibility of me falling on an easy looking route (IMHO) but figured best to be as safe as possible. Don’t like soloing unless I’m planning on soloing or in the right mental space. Her Gear anchor was 1 cam that looked pretty bomber, thank god, and 2 loose flappy extended runners with nuts, both nuts placed like the ones before (total shit). All the weight of the anchor was on the 1 cam obviously.Also she was belaying from above off her harness with an ATC (although she had a gri gri racked). If I fell the rope would have just spun through her ATC, no way it would catch a fall or even a light hang.I said something like “there are a few things we should talk about in the car ride back, let’s descend before the sun goes down.”So End of the day... On the drive back into town she confessed “10 years of on and off gym climbing” not “10 years of leading Trad” like she had specifically told me the day before on the phone, she later confessed she had only “led a few Trad routes before”I learned that some climbers will lie to you because they want so very badly to climb, and can be sociopaths or something along those lines. Complete lack of care for the lives of others. It’s all about themselves and themselves only and their adventure agenda or whatever you want to call it. I’m really glad that specific route was not challenging my limits whatsoever.When checking her lead belay skills [...]






Post: Cottonwood Canyon State Park, Oregon

2017-11-20T20:21:50-07:00

  1. Is there any climbing in Cottonwood Canyon State Park in Oregon? It looks like there is lots of potential, but I don't know if there is any routes being put up (or if it is even allowed).

Submitted By: Chris McDonald
Location: Pacific Northwest



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T20:09:49-07:00

Kurt G. wrote:

 

And please don't use this as a jump off to complain about dogs at the crag.

Thanks

and so it goes....


Submitted By: cragmantoo
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Indian creek partners

2017-11-20T20:08:29-07:00

I will be arriving in Moab early tomorrow. I plan on staying for a few days. Hoping to get on some moderate crack climbs. I have a small rack and ability to lead 5.10 trad. Willing to settle for sport or bouldering if that’s more your cup of tea... Just looking for stoked people who wanna get rad! Text me if you wanna climb! 2o8 72o 89o2


Submitted By: Dylan Welcome
Location: Utah Partners



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T20:07:55-07:00

A trained dog is the best "crag dog". Not much to it. 


Submitted By: Nate Nate
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Bouldering partner Yosemite

2017-11-20T20:04:59-07:00

Sounds good man, I'll see you Wednesday! 


Submitted By: Max Maisonneuve
Location: Southern California Partner...



Post: FS: CLIMBING PACKS FOR SALE - Patagonia Crag Daddy 45L, Black Diamond Hollowpoint, brand new (with tags) Women's Deuter Guide Lite 28L

2017-11-20T20:02:36-07:00

All listed prices include shipping. The Crag Daddy and Hollowpoint packs are both in good condition with minor buffs and scratches. The Deuter pack is brand new, with tags.

Patagonia Crag Daddy 45L: $130

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28005">

Black Diamond Hollowpoint: $40

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28006">

Deuter Women's Guide Lite 28L: $125

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28007">


Submitted By: Vania
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Guide service for Red Rock bouldering?

2017-11-20T19:55:40-07:00

Thanks for the suggestion Dylan! My main concern going without a guide is not having a spotter for myself. My wife is half my size, and my son is only 7. My son is a much better climber than me, but I'd crush him if he were to spot me on a fall :)


Submitted By: Ocean Zhang
Location: Nevada



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T19:55:13-07:00

I have had 2 golden retrievers and a flat coated retriever. All have been good crag dogs.


Golden retriever are a good choice because most people already considered goldens to be friendly and not aggressive.


Submitted By: climber pat
Location: General Climbing



Post re: FS: Totem, Basic cams (Nuco) and nuts

2017-11-20T19:51:32-07:00

Marc is an excellent seller. Cams arrived promptly and as described.


Submitted By: Vania
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: would you be having of the tips for 2nd "date?"

2017-11-20T19:49:58-07:00

My advice to any of my climbing friends . . . Don't be yourself!


Submitted By: Christopher Roberts
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T19:49:39-07:00

If you have to bring your dog to the crag please make sure it’s well trained and tough. Almost to service dog level. Australian cattle dogs (blue heelers) are great dogs. Just examine your reasons for bringing said dog to the crag.


Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Orizaba Gear List

2017-11-20T19:48:58-07:00

Brian wrote:

I also recommend staying at Sr. Reyes climbing hostel in Tlachichuca.  Great place and abuela Reyes cooks great meals.  

+1 on Sr Reyes at servimont.


Submitted By: David S
Location: Mountaineering



Post re: Is there such a thing as 5.14+ moves?

2017-11-20T19:48:54-07:00

I would think V17 is harder than 14+.

Burden of Dreams

General Climbing




Post re: Petzl Sarken and lynx thoughts?

2017-11-20T19:46:11-07:00

I have the Lynx and have used them for a few years now on mostly waterfall ice, they work great there.  With the different front point configurations they give a lot of options for ice/mixed/drytooling.  I haven't used them much in snow but they have done what I needed them to do in the pretty limited usage they've seen there.

One big drawback to these is the cost of replacement front points compared to competitors, it is ghastly(much like replacement picks for Petzl tools, hopefully the front points wear as well as the picks vs. most of the competition to help justify the price because it is a sizable gap).  I got mine used but in near N.I.B. condition for $40 CAD so I can justify buying a set of replacement front points for $90 but otherwise....I dunno, that seems really excessive to me for what you are getting.

That single drawback aside, I really like mine and they work well for me and the toe bail fits the toe welt on my Mont Blancs pretty well too.


Submitted By: Jesse Coonce
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Great Online Deals Thread

2017-11-20T19:43:03-07:00

Moosejaw.com

30% Off Arcteryx Item Thing:

  • Not all items are 30% off. Valid on select styles and brands. Exclusions apply.
  • You must use code JUMP30 to receive the discount on one full priced Arcterx item.
  • Deal cannot be applied to previous purchases.
  • Limit one use per person.
  • You have until 11/26/17, so hop to it.
  • Exclusions apply.

Submitted By: Clare Angelora
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Epinephrine: "Send It!" and Retro-Bolt It!

2017-11-20T19:41:14-07:00

Just some quick facts about bathrooms (big part of my job so I know more than I care):

CXT vault toilets, the big concrete ones, are about $20,000 to install. Half of that is the install (excavator + crane + semi truck for delivery). 

Not everyone is excited about vault toilets. Digging a massive hole and putting in a bathroom requires some planning. Nobody wants human waste leaking into the ecosystem in the wrong spot or getting washed away.

Vault toilets have to be pumped regularly, often 3-4 times per year at popular trailheads. It's not cheap and you need a medium duty truck to get there. The road in to Black Velvet TH would have to be improved and maintained regularly.

It's another toilet for the BLM to clean. Those things get nightmarish in pretty short order since people don't seem to know how to properly use a toilet anymore.

Not saying it's impossible or a bad idea to put one at the trailhead, just don't forget the realities!

There's also composting toilets and backcountry airlifted deals but that's a whole other ball of wax.


Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Location: Nevada



Post re: Epinephrine: "Send It!" and Retro-Bolt It!

2017-11-20T19:28:08-07:00

jackks wrote:

Bathroom sounds like a good beginning.Why would anyone hate that idea? Lots of people these days. I know Ive had an urgent calling or five while in the outdoors. 

If you see someone crapping, say something

That route sounds beautiful, at least as painted by peoples comments. 

There is a bathroom where you turn off the highway onto the dirt road... It's about a ~10 min drive back to the highway.

Epinephrine is probably the best moderate trad multipitch in the world, but I need to visit a lot more crags in other countries to really stand behind that.  Haven't seen or heard of a route quite like it anywhere else though.


Submitted By: Simon W
Location: Nevada



Post re: Taos Area Winter Climbing Group

2017-11-20T19:25:51-07:00

I’m not moving out there until January. Hopefully someone will chime in and get ya fixed up


Submitted By: Rone Taylor
Location: Arizona & New Mexico



Post re: Guide service for Red Rock bouldering?

2017-11-20T19:24:06-07:00

Honestly, you probably could hire a guide for this, but I'd really recommend just driving to the Kraft Boulders and looking around and climbing what seems fun. That area is probably about as close to climbing in a gym as outdoor climbing gets, in a good way, in that all of the climbing is easily accessible, not too tall, and close together. If the weather's good, there are guaranteed to be other people there who can show you around. I believe Desert Rock Sports on Charleston Boulevard will rent crash pads to you for a relatively cheap daily price. You can also buy a guidebook there, but this might not really be necessary for your very first time out.


Submitted By: Dylan Colon
Location: Nevada



Post re: Pet sitting around joshua tree

2017-11-20T19:21:20-07:00

Interested in doggy sitting for tomorrow Tues 11/21. Her name is Mary :) sent you a PM

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28004">


Submitted By: David Vogel
Location: Southern California



Post re: Cleaning small nuts

2017-11-20T19:21:08-07:00

For stuck cams or nuts I’ve resorted to feeding my thin nut tool cord or alpine draw Dyneema behind the piece to get a new angle of pull. That usually reverses whatever bullshit got it stuck


Submitted By: Adam Block
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post: Guide service for Red Rock bouldering?

2017-11-20T19:15:14-07:00

Hello, my family is visiting the Vegas area this weekend and would like to do some easy bouldering. Is there a guide service that can show us good spots to go? This will be our first time climbing outdoors. We're all beginners V0-V3 indoors. Thanks!


Submitted By: Ocean Zhang
Location: Nevada



Post re: FS Black Diamond Front Point bibs

2017-11-20T19:06:56-07:00

Black with white suspenders


Submitted By: Michael Neuenschwander
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...



Post re: Is Living in Anahiem Good for Climbers?

2017-11-20T19:05:07-07:00

Guy Keesee wrote:

LA is better than Phoenix .....   cause it's not nearly as hot and we have Stoney Point and you have "the beardsley boulders".... 

seriously...the worst thing about LA is having a long commute. If you can get to work quickly that frees up a whole heck of a lot personal time. 

I cringe at the thought of the San Diego drive back from the Mts....   Im 3 hours from Lone Pine, SD is 3 hours farther than that. 

The Sender one in Santa Anna is the best gym in the world.    IMHO only.


You need to visit Sender One LAX. 


Submitted By: AndrewArroz
Location: Southern California



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T19:03:29-07:00

Meredith E. wrote:

He was built as a bird dog, but both "American" and "English" labs can be good hunters, the difference is mainly in temperament and body conformation.  American labs are being bred primarily to hunt and compete in field trials (both upland game and waterfowl), rather than as pets or service dogs, which has resulted in a line that is different in body conformation (they tend to be taller, and leaner, with less of an otter tail) and a really really high energy level and drive.  They can still be trained to wait for the retrieve, but overall they take a much more experienced trainer and handler, and they need constant excercise and stimulation.  Mine is 6 and most people still think he's 2 because he's still got that young drive.   This link has a good overview of the differences: https://www.labradortraininghq.com/labrador-breed-information/the-difference-between-american-and-english-labradors/' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >labradortraininghq.com/labrado...

I've had two labs who would fall into the "American" description and while both had enormous energy and drive, they were both very mellow and able to chill, also. Might actually be a gender thing you're seeing given mine were both female and that I know an "English" male lab who is hyper as hell. Can't stop humping everything in sight!



Submitted By: AndrewArroz
Location: General Climbing






Post re: Route and Area page redesign - preview and give feedback!

2017-11-20T19:03:19-07:00

Marcus wrote:

It's hard to believe times change, but they do. Search engine algorithms have for a long time been aware of these tricks and are designed to negatively rank pages that employ them.


I think you know not of which you speak - or at least not of what I speak. :-)


Submitted By: Bill Lawry
Location: Discuss MountainProject.com



Post re: would you be having of the tips for 2nd "date?"

2017-11-20T19:03:15-07:00

A nice manicure is paramount, I hear.


Submitted By: Gunkiemike
Location: General Climbing



Post re: FS: Scarpa phantom 6000 eu 45. $279

2017-11-20T19:02:43-07:00

PM Sent


Submitted By: Mark Koob
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...






Post: BD Cobras and screws

2017-11-20T18:57:44-07:00

Cobras- $400 shipped to lower 48

Screws- $60 shipped for all 5

(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28000">(image) cdn-uploads.mountainproject.co... style="width: auto;" data-id="28001">



Submitted By: Matt Neal
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...






Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T18:53:34-07:00

Aleks Zebastian wrote:

climbing friend,

I love the animalz and the peoplez, just perhaps not always at the crag while I perform cutting edge next level new wave bold one arm campus flash

This is truly one of the funniest posts ever. Thanks for that Aleks.:) I couldn't agree more. Except for the "cutting edge next level new wave bold one arm campus flash." I know a problem that would probably work on. Sadly the ability eludes me.


Submitted By: s.price
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Asheville - Table Rock - Linville Beta

2017-11-20T18:52:54-07:00

I always go right on the first pitch as it appears to be the path of least resistance, but as you get about 30-40 feet up there is a little bulgy roofy awkwardy spot where you trend left again, as I recall.  It feels like an 8 move to me. 


Submitted By: Peter Pitocchi
Location: Southern States



Post re: Most dangerous newbie situation you've seen

2017-11-20T18:52:04-07:00

Kiri Namtvedt wrote:

Many years ago I did some climbing with a friend from work.  I had a fair amount of trad climbing under my belt.  She had some; she had shared a bunch of stories of previous climbing trips she had been on.  We took a day trip to Taylors Falls, MN to trad climb on the glorious basalt.  I led an easy 5.5ish climb.  She followed.  Then she led it and belayed me up.  When I got to the anchor I found that she had clipped her haul loop to the anchor and was belaying me off her harness - the only thing hooking both of us to the anchor was her haul loop... and it was not a full strength model.  I pointed this out and explained why it was bad.  She insisted that people she had climbed with on the North Shore had "done it this way".

I have heard about this practice back in the 90's (nd possibly before 1990).  There might have been a time when it was popular and most(?) harnesses had full strength haul loop (not to be confused with gear loop).  Sounded sketchy to me back then, even more so today with the advent of better belay devices and better methods for 'top belaying' as well as the super lightweight "sport harnesses".  


Submitted By: S. Neoh
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Taos Area Winter Climbing Group

2017-11-20T18:50:34-07:00

Anyone interested in tomorrow 11/21 or 11/22? Sport focused (I don’t have my rack with me while visiting )...


Submitted By: TravisJBurke
Location: Arizona & New Mexico



Post re: Is Living in Anahiem Good for Climbers?

2017-11-20T18:48:58-07:00

LA is better than Phoenix .....   cause it's not nearly as hot and we have Stoney Point and you have "the beardsley boulders".... 

seriously...the worst thing about LA is having a long commute. If you can get to work quickly that frees up a whole heck of a lot personal time. 

I cringe at the thought of the San Diego drive back from the Mts....   Im 3 hours from Lone Pine, SD is 3 hours farther than that. 

The Sender one in Santa Anna is the best gym in the world.    IMHO only.



Submitted By: Guy Keesee
Location: Southern California



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T18:48:24-07:00

The best crag dog is no crag dog.. Leave Fido at home...


Submitted By: Jon Po
Location: General Climbing



Post re: Family friendly areas in Red Rock

2017-11-20T18:46:00-07:00

Sunnyside crag. Straight shooter. Brass  Wall  (topless twins & mushroom people)   Front of mescalito (disco, next century and splitting hares). And, the unsung classic, Flight Path Area. 41 minute approach on that one though 


Submitted By: Rprops
Location: Nevada



Post re: TUESDAY RESCUE 10/17/17 STONEY POINT.... WE HAVE ALL OF YOUR GEAR.

2017-11-20T18:27:49-07:00

News Flash.... !!!!


The gear has been returned to the rightful owner. 

He received almost 300 bee stings!  OUCH   ' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >cdnjs.cloudflare.com/ajax/libs... 

Thank you to everyone who shared the tale.... word got around. 







Submitted By: Guy Keesee
Location: Southern California



Post re: Cleaning small nuts

2017-11-20T18:27:42-07:00

climbing friend,

put away your tiny nuts! no one is wanting to see them, let alone "clean" them! Myahahah!


Submitted By: Aleks Zebastian
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Just moved to Joshua tree

2017-11-20T18:27:34-07:00

Hey there! I’ll be here through weds evening and sounds like we’re in similar grades, I am unfortunately not a female but let me know if you want to climb tomorrow or Wednesday! 434-426-3565


Submitted By: Mike Lane
Location: Southern California Partner...



Post re: el Chalten, Patagonia -- Beta on Moderate Alpine Routes

2017-11-20T18:23:21-07:00

jkd159 wrote:

Thanks Seth! What route did you do on Cerro Solo? On pataclimb.com it seems most of the lines are either mixed snow/rock or specifically called out as poor quality rock. Cerro Solo isn't on the map I'm looking at, but I assume it is near Cerro Azara which is on my map.


I climbed Cara Este. It's basically a scramble with some low 5th and steep snow. It would be pretty reasonable to pitch the steep snow out if your partner had never been on a glacier and was uncomfortable. Around 200m on snow with 60m at around 50deg. I would consider it on par with something like the north ridge of the Middle Teton in difficulty.

The views are great. Cerro Solo is located directly S-SW of Laguna Torre. 


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Submitted By: Seth Kane
Location: International



Post re: J-Tree Nov 16 - Dec 16

2017-11-20T18:22:19-07:00

I’m in town through Wednesday evening and would love to get on some of these weird lookin rocks! I’m mega out of shape so I’d be following above 8 or 9ish I reckon, but have a rack, a rope, and some stoke. Feel free to get in touch if you’re free: 434-426-3565


Submitted By: Mike Lane
Location: Southern California Partner...



Post: Climbing tomorrow 11/21 or 11/22 near Santa fe

2017-11-20T18:14:18-07:00

Just got into town and looking to get on rock-el Rito? Anything around los Alamos? Wherever really! Have sport rack with me and rental car-can meet you or pick up. Usually onsight low 11s, but happy to do whatever. Pm me or send a text 775-313-8670 (travis)

Or, easy to just meet climbers at parking lot/crag?


Submitted By: TravisJBurke
Location: Arizona & New Mexico



Post: Lost: Black iPhone 5s at Fin Wall Indian Creek

2017-11-20T18:13:07-07:00

The odds are high that I left my iPhone in the dirt in the parking lot for Fin Wall on 11/19/2017. If you happened to find it, please email me: charrington42[at]gmail.com.


Submitted By: Christy Harrington
Location: Lost and Found



Post: Albuquerque holiday climbing

2017-11-20T18:11:29-07:00

A Canadian climber coming to visit NM for the holidays. I'm looking to get outdoors between Boxing Day and New Year's and need a partner or group to join. 18 years of sport experience, leading into mid-5.11's, some multi-pitch. I have the Falcon Press guidebook and would appreciate being shown around. I have a rental vehicle and am willing to drive. I will be staying in Taos, but willing to go anywhere the adventure takes me.


Submitted By: Glenn Hulme
Location: Arizona & New Mexico Partne...



Post: Trip to USA

2017-11-20T18:10:43-07:00

Hei !

I'm travelling in Canada and I am actually in Toronto and I'm done to spent few weeks south to the USA, to do some multipitches, sport and trad !

I am available until Christmas !

Let me know 

Lionel


Submitted By: Lionel Dubuis
Location: Extended Trips and Internat...



Post re: Edge climbing gym

2017-11-20T18:06:01-07:00

dale polen wrote:This is what was emailed to me from the gym, when I complained that the routes were too easy. The 12s in this gym are only tens,like 10a. Crazy easy. These are the ropes climbs...I'm sorry, didn't realize that you actually wanted a response. We assumed that you're just a really grumpy person who wanted to complain and vent a bit. The gym is meant to be a friendly fun place where people come in to socialize and have a good time. If your intent is to bitch and complain about everything at the staff and other guests in the gym, then this probably isn't going to be the place for you. It also seemed that the purpose of your messages was to continue to make a lot of noise about how strong and awesome you are. And it seemed that everything in your messages were greatly exaggerated. So I assumed you weren't interested in a real discussion or any real answers. I just assumed that you obviously have some low self-esteem and confidence issues. But maybe I was wrong? Is that not the case? Have you really been climbing as long as you say and you still don't understand the differences between outside and indoor grading? They're not the same thing. They never will be. If that somehow is so offense to you, I don't know what to tell you other than just get over it. Do you really think that we've never been to any other indoor climbing gyms? We frequent many gyms with our youth climbing team. We have staff that have worked at gyms from Arizona, SLC, Washington and California. I've personal been to every [...]



Post re: Cleaning small nuts

2017-11-20T18:01:49-07:00

J-Moe wrote:

Yeah I'm not a big fan of the upwards tug method, but I didn't have a good, straightforward explanation of an alternate technique. I was hoping a crusty old tradster might have a trick or two, other than calling me a noob-fool who deserved what I got. And I placed, not cleaned it so I think this harshness is a bit misdirected.

It's simple: reverse the movement that was used to place the nut. Usually that means keeping the cable pointing downwards (NO UPWARDS YANK!), move it up (nut tool!) and then out.


Submitted By: Gunkiemike
Location: Climbing Gear Discussion



Post re: Best kind of crag dog?

2017-11-20T18:01:37-07:00

climbing friend,

I love the animalz and the peoplez, just perhaps not always at the crag while I perform cutting edge next level new wave bold one arm campus flash


Submitted By: Aleks Zebastian
Location: General Climbing



Post: Any areas near Golden/Clear Creek Canyon protected from wind?

2017-11-20T17:54:38-07:00

Are there known areas around Golden and Clear Creek Canyon that are more protected from wind?


Submitted By: Peter D Daniels
Location: Colorado



Post re: Loop road closure, Thanksgiving day

2017-11-20T17:54:17-07:00

Spoke with folks at the BLM office today (public relations and law enforcement) and just as a FYI if you are in the loop when the entrance gate/visitor center closes normal exit hours/late exit permit rules apply.  There isn't going to be some sort of mass sweep/kick out of folks.  Any questions this is who I initially spoke with Name: John Asselin Email: jasselin@blm.gov Phone: (702) 515-5046


Submitted By: RedRock Rat
Location: Nevada



Post re: Climbing at the New (comic)

2017-11-20T17:53:05-07:00

The few weeks I have spent there in the off-seasons I can say for sure that this comic is funny. Chalk all over the bolted and almost no chalk+cobwebs all over the trad lines. 

This is why the gyms churning out hoardes doesnt bother me a bit.


Submitted By: T Roper
Location: Southern States



Post: Taos Area Winter Climbing Group

2017-11-20T17:48:32-07:00

Looking for some people to climb with this Winter in the Taos area. Sport proficient, looking to learn Trad as well.

Post here if your interested in finding like-minded climbers in the Taos area for some winter climbing!


Submitted By: Rone Taylor
Location: Arizona & New Mexico



Post re: FS: 2006 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport 4x4 Doublecab 121,461 miles - $18900 (Carmel, IN)

2017-11-20T17:48:29-07:00

Sandbagger Vance wrote:

KBB was invented to justify dealers knocking fair market value, and insurance companies paying less than market diminished value of vehicles after an accident. 

That being said, I wouldn't pay more than 15k for a vehicle with more than 100k in miles. Unless it had a new transmission or something, but thats just one layman's opinion. I hear Tacoma's are pretty popular.

can you provide a citation for that first statement?


Submitted By: JSchloem
Location: FOR SALE / FOR FREE / WANT ...