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Preview: Food and Drink :: The New York Sun

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Food and Drink :: Articles from The New York Sun

Last Build Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2018 02:00:18 -0400

Copyright: Copyright 2018 The New York Sun

Sin City Goes Tea Total

Fri, 1 Jul 2011 12:39:01 EST

Specialty teas are galvanizing new constituencies of taste, whether it is oolongs or senchas that appeal to longevity-conscious baby boomers or the muscatel second-flush Darjeelings, sourced to individual estates, wine chateau-style, that are awakening a new class of connoisseurs.

JoeDoe Lives Up to Its Name

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

When a restaurant bears the name of its chef, be it ill-fated Grayz (whose founding namesake, Gray Kunz, departed this month) or Gordon Ramsay's tepid Gordon Ramsay, the name on the sign often seems like a substitute for -- rather than a token of -- any personality within. JoeDoe is an unlovely name for a restaurant, but it feels like a true expression of its chef, Joe Dobias.

In a Black-and-White World, Mother's Knows Best

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

In the battle of the best black-and-white cookie in New York, there are two bakeries that popularly stand out: Glaser's and William Greenberg Jr. Desserts, both hailing from the tony Upper East Side. But can a locally known Bronx bakery, Mother's, take on and take out these two titans?

Danny Meyer's Concrete Take on Shake Shack's Latest Outpost

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Burger lovers on the Upper West Side have been buzzing with anticipation all summer for the opening of the second outpost of Shake Shack, restaurateur Danny Meyer's perennially popular burger stand in Madison Square Park. Earlier this year, rumors had the opening date of the new restaurant, at 77th Street and Columbus Avenue, pegged to the beginning of October; now, mid-October seems more likely. When asked about opening dates throughout the summer, various figures at the Union Square Hospitality Group (the company that oversees all of Mr. Meyer's restaurants) declined to provide specifics.

Sharpening Youthful Skills in the Kitchen

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

When "Top Chef Junior" eventually airs (an air date is pending), it is likely that a teenager from food-savvy New York City will be among the contestant ranks. For now, though, New York's teenagers have plenty of opportunities to engage in cooking classes at culinary institutes across city, without the heat from the judges' table.

Kitchen Dish: Archipelago, the Grand Tier, and Ellis

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Bret Thorn on Archipelago's opening, Ellis's Southern menu, and new phone numbers at Applewood.

Sheridan Square's Go-Round Ends With Impressive Results

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

The other memorable aspect of the restaurant is Mr. Becker's food, which is exceptional. It's not just because of his long history on the scene that his dining rooms are often dotted with chefs from other restaurants. At several previous restaurants, I've recognized his knack for unexpected variations and re-envisionings of familiar themes. That knack is nowhere to be seen at Sheridan Square, where the dishes are straightforward and powerfully fueled by their ingredients.

Marco Pierre White Rises From the Ashes

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Marco Pierre White vanished. At the very point when cooking became rock 'n' roll, the man who created the modern-day British phenomenon of the celebrity chef handed back his three Michelin stars in 1999 and went fishing.

Kitchen Dish: Double Crown, Bussaco, and Tierra

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

ASIAN FROM DOWN UNDER AvroKO, the design firm that owns Public restaurant, opened Double Crown (316 Bowery at Bleecker Street, 212-254-0350) earlier this week. Manning the kitchen is Australian chef de cuisine Chris Rendell, most recently of Mews of Mayfair in London, and the food is intended to reflect an intersection of British cuisine and the culinary customs of the Asian part of its former empire. Dishes included tandoori-marinated foie gras with Earl Grey prunes, and Singapore laksa with...

At Macondo, Size May Vary

Wed, 10 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Macondo is the latest restaurant to promise its customers the enchantment of pedestrian fare. The name comes from a town in Gabriel Garcia M quez's magic-realist novel "One Hundred Years of Solitude," and accordingly, the environment is a strange superimposition of tropical fantasy -- fresh pineapples suspended from the ceiling, walls lined with exotic jarred fruits -- with the concrete grubbiness of a Lower East Side sidewalk.

Looking at New York's Liquid Past

Wed, 10 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

In toast to the commencement of the fall drinking season, we offer this local walking tour of tippling history.

Kitchen Dish: Bloomingdale Road, de Santos, and Magnolia Bakery

Wed, 10 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Bret Thorn on the Upper West's latest addition, a Mexican rocker's Italian eatery, and lounging around at Hea.

Convivio Revamps the Old L'Impero

Wed, 3 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

L'Impero, whose dark staidness sat easily in hushed, clubby Tudor City, closed in June, and reopened shortly afterward with the same chef but with a new name, bright Mediterranean colors, and a menu that emphasizes the vibrant south of Italy at slightly more accessible prices.

Kitchen Dish: Tong, Num Pang, and More

Wed, 3 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Bret Thorn on Tong's expected opening, Num Pang's fall premiere, and a slamming celebration at Pamplona.

Locavorism, From Across the Pond

Wed, 3 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

Meet Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, the face of British local eating, or locavorism, as it's currently known. Well known in Britain, Mr. Fearnley-Whittingstall began venturing across the pond last year with "The River Cottage Meat Book" (Ten Speed Press), the first of his books adapted for an American audience. Part cookbook and part manifesto, "Meat" -- which won the 2008 James Beard Cookbook of the Year award -- lays out his food creed: Eat local, organic, and humanely raised, and don't shirk on quality.

New Tables, New Tastes This Autumn

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

The country might be suffering through an economic downturn, but New York's restaurant operators do not seem to have noticed. The three months following Labor Day are traditionally the city's busiest season for restaurant openings, and this year is no exception.

Bridging the Gap Between Summer and Fall Wines

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:00:00 EST

It's now time for what I call segue wines, which are the equivalent of cotton sweaters. They're of a class whose duty it is to be not merely refreshing, like summer wines, or to carry weight and richness, like winter wines, but to be somewhere in between. They are the mid-weights that ease us into the season when the crickets become silent and the evenings turn crisp.

Cold, Creamy Beer, Corn, and Wasabi

Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:00:00 EST

"Not every flavor is for everybody, here."A co-owner of Max & Mina's, Bruce Becker, gestured toward one of his shop walls, where a menu of beer, corn, wasabi, sour cream, and lox reads more like a picnic or sushi menu than a list of ice cream confections.While locals in neighboring Flushing appear to have fallen under the low-calorie spell of Pinkberry and Red Mango the competing frozen yogurt chains opened last year within a few doors of each other on Roosevelt Avenue near Main Street the...

Socarrat Takes a Secure Attitude Toward Tapas

Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:00:00 EST

Socarrat, on West 19th Street, feels like a pleasant step off the more-authentic-than-thou merry-go-round of tapas. Not that it's lacking in Spanishness -- every bite is one you might take in Barcelona -- but it lacks the frantically aspirational feeling one gets at, say, nearby Boqueria, where the implication of the well-researched menu is that if you don't like a particular dish, it's your own fault for having a parochial palate.

Kitchen Dish: Black Iron Burger, Clo, Shorty's.32, and More

Wed, 27 Aug 2008 00:00:00 EST

Bret Thorn on Black Iron Burger's opening, Clo's electronic wine lists, Shorty's.32 homemade desserts, and a birthday celebration at Cafe Luxembourg.