Preview: The Breakfast Chef
The Breakfast Chef
Vintage recipes, ideas, and thoughts about the art of cooking a fine breakfast. Lots of tasty ideas from old cookbooks. Get up, start cooking!
Spanish Omelet II
In a chopping bowl place two nice large ripe tomatoes, first peeling them; one large or two medium-sized white Texas onions, two sprigs of parsley, and one large green-bell pepper, first removing most of its seeds.
Chop these ingredients well together quite fine, turn them into a saucepan and let them cook over rather a brisk heat until quite soft. Put no water in this mixture. Add a tablespoon of olive oil or of butter before it begins to cook and season well with salt and red pepper.
Make the omelet the same as the plain one, but use water instead of milk in mixing it, and only use two tablespoons of water for the six eggs required.
After the eggs are sufficiently beaten, mixed, and in the pan over the fire, and when the edges begin to stiffen, cover the surface of the omelet to within an inch of the edge with the cooked vegetables. Fold the omelet quickly and turn it on a hot platter.
Pour around it all the vegetables left in the pan and serve.
Also see Spanish Omelet
Sticky Cinnamon Buns
From "Mrs. Wilson's Cook Book, Numerous New Recipes Based on Present Economic Condition", by Mrs. Mary A. Wilson, 1920.
Scald one cup of milk and then place:
- Four tablespoonfuls of shortening
- One-half cupful of sugar
- One teaspoonful of salt
in the mixing bowl, and pour over it the scalded milk. Stir to thoroughly mix and then cool to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Now dissolve one-half yeast cake in one-half cupful of water 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and when the milk is at the proper temperature, add six cupfuls of flour and work to a smooth dough. Place in a well-greased bowl, turning the dough around in the bowl so that it will be thoroughly coated with shortening. Cover and let rise three and one-half hours.
Now pull the sides of the dough into the centre and punch down, turning the dough over. Let rise again for one hour, then turn on a moulding board and divide the dough in half. Knead each piece into a ball. Cover and let rise or spring for ten minutes. Now roll out one-quarter inch thick, using a rolling pin. Brush with melted shortening and sprinkle well with brown sugar, using [pg 21]
about one cupful. Now dust with two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon and spread over the prepared dough one and one-half cupfuls of currants or small seedless raisins. Begin at the edge and roll like a jelly-roll. Cut in pieces one and one-half inches thick and then place in prepared pans and let rise for one hour. Then bake in a moderate oven for forty minutes.
To prepare the pan for the cinnamon buns:
Grease the pan very thickly with shortening and then spread one cupful brown sugar and one-half cupful of currants or small seedless raisins evenly over the bottom of the pan. Place buns in pan and let rise for one hour in a warm place, then bake in a moderate oven for thirty-five minutes.
Now for the trick. When the buns are baked, brush the pastry board with shortening, then place
Two tablespoonfuls of brown sugar,
One tablespoonful of water
in a saucepan, mix thoroughly, and then bring to a boil. Now, just as soon as the buns are baked, turn from the pan at once and brush well with the prepared syrup, brushing the bottom with the syrup, as brushing the candied part of the buns prevents it from hardening. Let cool and then use.
New York Style Eggs
From the "Civic League Cook Book", 1913. This is a baked egg casserole dish.
Boil six eggs half an hour. Drop them into cold water; shell and quarter them and lay them in a buttered baking dish. Make a white sauce of one pint of hot milk with butter, and flour enough to thicken. Season and stir until smooth.
Chop two large boiled onions, add to the sauce and pour over the eggs, sprinkle the top with cracker crumbs, dots of butter and two tablespoons of grated cheese.
Bake until a nice brown and serve immediately.
Old-Fashioned Buckwheat Griddle Cakes
To bring the true nut flavor from the buckwheat we must go back to old-fashioned method of setting the buckwheat to rise overnight. Don't you remember the brownstone crock that
was kept in the pantry and each time it was left with just enough of the mixture to start a new batter? The buckwheat would be prepared each night just before bedtime, and in the morning a cup of warm water was added, together with a couple of tablespoonfuls of syrup. The mixture was beaten and then the griddle was put on to heat. Sometimes it was a soapstone or a heavy iron griddle. When well heated it was rubbed with a piece of cut turnip or potato. The batter was poured on in large platter-sized cakes and then as quickly as they browned they were dexteriously turned to brown again.
To make perfect buckwheat cakes you must first of all obtain a stone-ground flour, and then it must be blended in proportion. Good, lively yeast is added, and if milk is used for the mixing it must be scalded and then cooled before using. To prepare the flour for the mixing:
- Three pounds of buckwheat flour,
- One and one-half pounds of wheat flour,
- One pound of corn flour,
- One ounce of salt,
- One-half ounce of baking soda.
Sift twice to thoroughly mix and then place in a dry container and the flour is then ready to use.
Place the popover pan in the oven to heat. When hot start to mix the batter. Place in a measuring cup one egg, then fill with milk. Pour into a mixing bowl and then add
- One cup of sifted flour,
- One teaspoon of sugar,
- One-half teaspoon of salt.
Beat with egg-beater until the mixture is a mass of bubbles on top, when the egg-beater is removed. This usually takes about five minutes.
Now grease the hot popover pan well and fill one-half full with the batter. Place in a hot oven and bake for thirty-five minutes. Do not open the oven door for ten minutes after you put the popovers in. Opening the door before this period of time elapses prevents the mixture from springing or popping.
After twenty minutes turn down the heat to moderate oven to prevent burning and to dry out the centers.
Mrs. Wilson's Corn Muffins
From "Mrs. Wilson's Cook Book Numerous New Recipes Based on Present Economic Conditions", 1920.
Place in a mixing bowl:
- Three-quarters cup cornmeal,
- One and one-quarter cups flour,
- One teaspoon salt,
- Two level tablespoons baking powder,
- Two tablespoons shortening,
- Four tablespoons syrup,
- One and one-quarter cups of water.
Beat to mix and bake in well-greased iron muffin pans.
Hotel St. Francis Special Waffles
From "The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book", by Victor Hirtzler, Chicago, 1919.
- One-half pound of flour
- One teaspoonful of baking powder
- One spoonful of sugar
- One ounce of melted butter,
- One-half pint of milk
- One pinch of salt
- Three yolks and three whites of eggs.
Mix the baking powder with the flour, then add the sugar, salt, yolks of eggs, butter and milk, and make a batter that should not be too stiff and hard. Beat the whites of eggs very hard, add to the batter, and mix well.
Bake in a well-greased hot iron. (If possible use sour milk.)
German Coffee Cake
From "Fifty-Two Sunday Dinners, 1913".
1 cup scalded milk.
3 tablespoons Crisco shortening (originally, the recipe called for Cottolene).
1/3 cup sugar.
½ teaspoon salt.
1 compressed yeast cake dissolved in ¼ cup lukewarm water.
1 egg well beaten.
½ cup seeded and shredded raisins.
Put shortening, sugar and salt in mixing bowl; add scalded milk. When lukewarm add dissolved yeast cake, beaten egg and sufficient flour to make a very thick batter. Beat thoroughly until mixture is smooth.
Add raisins, cover closely and set to rise. When light, spread dough in buttered dripping pan one inch in thickness; cover and let rise again. Before placing in the oven, brush over with beaten egg and cover with the following mixture:
Melt one-third cup butter in a sauce-pan, add one-half cup sugar, mix with one and one-half teaspoons cinnamon. When sugar is partially melted add one and one-half tablespoons flour. Mix well and spread on cake, strew top with blanched and shredded almonds, bake twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven.
Old Fashioned Homemade Breakfast Cereals
From "The Community Cookbook", Winter St. Baptist Church, Haverhill, Mass., 1916
CORN MEAL MUSH.
Allow one pint of meal and one teaspoonful of salt to a quart of water. Sprinkle meal gradually into boiling salted water, stirring all the time. Boil rapidly for a few minutes, then let simmer for a long time. Very palatable served with milk; some people like it with butter and pepper. For fried mush let it get cold, then cut in slices, dip in flour and fry in suet until brown.
This is very good when well cooked, and may be simply boiled until done in salted water, and served with pepper and butter. It is good fried like mush.
MACARONI WITH CHEESE.
After boiling macaroni in salted water until soft, sprinkle with grated cheese; repeat, pour over a sauce made of butter, flour, salt and scalded milk; cover with bread crumbs and bake until brown.
Rice has been cultivated from time immemorial. While not so valuable a food as some of the other cereals, it forms the larger part of the diet of people in the tropics and in semi-tropical countries, and is used extensively in other places. It is eaten by more human beings than any other cereal; is not equal to wheat as a brain food, but worthy of the high place it holds in the estimation of mankind.
It may be simply boiled and served as a vegetable, with pepper and butter, or served with sugar and cream. It is good cooked in milk. Is baked like macaroni with cheese, and cooked in various ways in combination with meat or vegetables.
One of the quickest ways of preparing rice is to fill a large kettle with water, allow it to come to a boil; when bubbling vigorously throw in two cups of rice and boil hard twenty-five minutes. Empty into a colander and dash under cold water, which will separate the grains. Season with pepper and salt, heap lightly on a dish and put a lump of butter on top.
None of the breakfast foods which are so much used are so wholesome as a simple dish of rolled oats or the old-fashioned oatmeal. Served with or without cream and sugar, these are to be highly recommended to persons who are compelled to live indoors a great deal, and are generally relished by those who lead an outdoor life. Although rolled oats is supposed to be a dish quickly prepared, it is better, like oatmeal, for being cooked a long time, and baked for two hours, after being boiled a few minutes, it is very palatable and nutritious.
From "Many Ways for Cooking Eggs, by Mrs. S.T. Rorer
Bake as many potatoes as you have persons to serve. When done, cut off the sides, scoop out a portion of the potato, leaving a wall about a half inch thick. Mash the scooped-out portion, add to it a little hot milk, salt and pepper, and put it into a pastry bag. Put a little salt, pepper and butter into each potato and break in a fresh egg.
Press the potato from the pastry bag through a star tube around the edge of the potato, forming a border. Stand these in a baking pan and bake until the eggs are "set." Put a tablespoonful of cream sauce in the center of each, and send to the table.
German Pancake Recipes
From a Jewish cookbook published in 1919.
GERMAN PANCAKES, No. 1
Beat two eggs very thoroughly without separating the yolks and whites; add one-half teaspoon of salt, sift in two and one-half tablespoons of flour, add one cup of milk gradually at first, and beat the whole very well. Melt one tablespoon of butter in a large frying-pan, turn mixture in and cook slowly until brown underneath. Grease the bottom of a large pie plate, slip the pancake on the plate; add the other tablespoon of butter to the frying-pan; when hot, turn uncooked side of pancake down and brown. Serve at once with sugar and lemon slices or with any desired preserve or syrup. This pancake may be served rolled like a jelly roll.
GERMAN PANCAKES, No. 2
Beat two eggs until very light, add one-half cup of flour and one-half teaspoon of salt and beat again; then add one cup of milk slowly, and beat thoroughly. Heat a generous quantity of butter in a frying-pan and pour all the batter into this at one time; place on a hot stove for one minute; then remove to a brisk oven; the edges will turn up on sides of pan in a few minutes; then reduce heat and cook more slowly until light, crisp and brown, about seven minutes. Take it out, slide it carefully on a hot plate, sprinkle plentifully with powdered sugar and send to the table with six lemon slices.
GERMAN PANCAKES, No. 3
Beat the yolks of four eggs until very light, then add one-half cup of milk and stir in three-quarters cup of sifted flour, one-eighth teaspoon of baking-powder, a pinch of salt, and lastly, just before frying, add the stiffly-beaten whites of eggs and mix well together. Put on fire an iron skillet with a close-fitting top; heat in two tablespoons of rendered butter; when very hot, pour in enough of the batter to cover the bottom of the skillet, cover at once with the top, and when the pancake is brown on one side, remove the top and let it brown on the other side. Take it up with a perforated skimmer, lay on a plate and sprinkle with powdered sugar and some lemon juice. Serve at once. Pancakes must only be made and fried when ready to be eaten, as they fall from standing.
Omelet Recipes from the Canadian Provinces
The following is excerpted from "Ontario Teachers' Manuals: Household Science in Rural Schools", 1918, from the The Minister of Education for Ontario. The manual was "issued for the purpose of encouraging the introduction and furthering the progress of Household Science in the rural schools of this Province".
1/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. butter
1 tbsp. milk
Beat the egg slightly, add the milk and seasonings, put the butter in the hot omelet pan and, when melted, turn in the mixture. As it cooks, draw the edges toward the centre until the whole is of a creamy consistency, brown quickly underneath, fold, and turn on a hot platter. Serve at once. Serves one.
1/8 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. milk or water
1/2 tsp. butter
Cayenne or white pepper
Beat the yolk of the egg until creamy, add seasoning and milk. Beat the white until stiff, but not dry, cut and fold into the yolk carefully. Heat an omelet pan, rub the bottom and sides with the butter, and turn in the omelet, spreading it evenly on the pan. Cook gently over the heat until the omelet is set and evenly browned underneath. Put it into a hot oven for a few minutes, to dry slightly on top, fold, and serve immediately. Serves one.
A Simple Salmon Breakfast Dish
(image) From "The Salmon Cook Book, How to Eat Canned Salmon", the Panama Pacific International Exposition, 1915
Put a can of Salmon into a saucepan and cover with boiling water, cook ten minutes, remove Salmon from can and drain off liquid into a separate dish. After separating the skin and bones from the Salmon, place in a hot dish and pour over and around the fish the following sauce: One cup of milk, two level tablespoonfuls of corn starch, the Salmon liquid, one level tablespoonful of butter, one egg well beaten, one-quarter teaspoonful of salt, pinch of pepper. Heat the milk to boiling, thicken with corn starch, add the butter, salt, pepper, Salmon liquid and egg.
Serve at once.Editors Note: You can purchase a reproduction in Adobe PDF format (on CD-ROM) of the original cookbook. It is a beautiful old cookbook with charming illustrations, one of which is shown here.
From "The Pilgrim Cookbook", by the The Ladies' Aid Society, Pilgrim Ev. Lutheran Church, Cuyler Avenue and N. Lincoln Street, Chicago, 1921.
Beat the yolks of 2 eggs and add a batter made of 1 cup flour, into which has been stirred 1 teaspoon baking powder, a large pinch salt, 1 cup milk and 1 teaspoon butter, melted. Beat all together, add 1 cup strawberries cut in halves and dredged with flour. Just before beginning to bake cakes fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites.
Bake on a well greased griddle and serve with butter and powdered sugar.
-- Mrs. F. Schoenwolf.
Omelet with Fried Tomatoes
From "The Pilgrim Cookbook", by the The Ladies' Aid Society, Pilgrim Ev. Lutheran Church, Cuyler Avenue and N. Lincoln Street, Chicago, 1921.
Wipe and peel 2 tomatoes ; cut in two slices ; three if large. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Fry 1 teaspoon onion in 1 tablespoon butter, till yellow ; draw it to one side and quickly fry the tomatoes, adding more butter if needed.
Place on a hot platter and then make a plain omelet with 2 to 4 eggs, according to size desired. Beat the eggs slightly with a fork, add a dash of pepper and 1 tablespoon hot water to each egg. Turn into hot buttered frying pan, and as itthickens draw the cooked part to the center; when nearly all thick shake on a little salt. Let it color slightly, turn out on platter having the tomatoes arranged around it.
— Mrs. H. G. Tischer.
German Egg Pancakes
From "Pennsylvania Dutch Cooking"
5 eggs, separated
1/2 cup milk
1 cup flour, sifted
Put the yolks of 5 eggs in a bowl and beat until very light. Add the milk and flour gradually and mix into a smooth batter which is not too thick. Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Drop large spoonfuls on a hot greased griddle. Serve hot sprinkled with sugar or spread with currant or other tart jelly or jam.
Eggs a la Reine
From "Many Ways for Cooking Eggs", by Mrs. S.T. Rorer.
1/2 pint of chopped cold cooked chicken
1/2 can of mushrooms
2 tablespoonfuls of butter
2 tablespoonfuls of flour
1/2 pint of milk
1/2 teaspoonful of salt
1 saltspoonful of pepper
Use ordinary shirring dishes for the eggs; butter them, break into each one egg, stand these in a pan of boiling water and in the oven until they are "set." Rub the butter and flour together, add the milk, stir until boiling, add the salt, pepper, chopped chicken and mushrooms, and put one tablespoonful of this on top of each egg and send at once to the table. This is also nice if you put a tablespoonful of the mixture in the bottom of the dish, break the egg into it, and then at serving time put another tablespoonful over the top.
From "Dishes and Beverages of the Old South", 1913
Anybody, almost, can fry an egg wrong. It takes some skill to fry one exactly right. Have the frying pan covered with grease, hot, but not scorching, slip in the eggs, previously broken separately, taking pains not to break yolks, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, keep edges from running together, then when they have hardened underneath, dip hot grease over the tops, keeping on till the white sets. If the heat is right the eggs will not stick to the pan. Cook as hard as is desirable, take up with a cake-turner, and lay in a shallow pan, lined with soft clean paper. Keep hot while they drain—it takes a minute or so—then remove to a blazing hot dish, and serve. If ham goes with them lay it in the middle, with eggs all around it. Triangles of fried toast in between look and taste well at breakfast.
Pork and Beans for Breakfast
Wash a quart of small white beans in cold water; pick them over while in the water; reject all imperfect beans; drain; cover with fresh cold water, and let them soak over night. Next morning change the water twice; then put them in a large iron pot; add a liberal quantity of cold water, and simmer them slowly for four hours. Pour them into a colander carefully to drain. Heat an old-fashioned beanpot with hot water, and wipe it dry; place a small piece of pork in the pot, and add the beans to within two inches of the top; now place a small piece of pork (properly scored on its rind) on the beans. Dissolve a tablespoonful of black molasses in a pint of warm water; add half a teaspoonful of salt and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce, and pour this over the beans; place the pot in a moderate oven, and bake for three hours, at the end of which time take them out, and add a little more warm water, to prevent them from becoming too dry. Bake for three hours longer, and serve with hot Boston brown bread.
The old-fashioned manner of preparing this dish was to place all the pork on top, the result being that the first few spoonfuls of beans contained all the pork fat, while the remainder had not been seasoned by it.
The above recipe distributes the pork fat evenly through the beans, as it is lighter than water, and naturally rises; and for this reason only half the usual quantity of pork is required to produce the desired result.
Southern-Style Chicken and Turkey Hash
Cut the meat small, freeing of skin and gristle. If there is rich gravy left, put it into a skillet, and cook tender in it, half a dozen sliced tomatoes, three shredded green peppers, a small sliced onion, and a cupful of raw potato cubes. Lacking gravy, cook in butter or bacon fat, and season to taste—gravy requires less seasoning than plain fat. Add the meat, pour in a cup of boiling water, stir all well together, and cook for five minutes. Serve in a hot dish lined with thin toast. Fine for breakfast, or a very late supper.From "Dishes and Beverages of the Old South", 1913
Select three smooth, medium-sized, well-filled tomatoes; cut into slices half an inch thick; dredge them with flour or roll in egg and crumbs, and fry (or, rather, sautée) in a small quantity of hot fat, turning and cooking both sides evenly. Have prepared the following sauce: Add to a pint of milk a tablespoonful of flour, one beaten egg, salt, pepper, and a very little mace. Cream an ounce of butter; whisk into it the milk, and let it simmer until it thickens; pour the sauce on a hot side dish; arrange the tomatoes in the center, and add the chops opposite each other, and serve.
Plain broiled or papered chops may be served in this way.From "Breakfast Dainties", by Thomas J. Murrey, 1885.
Baked Macaroni Omelet
Boil 2 ozs. short cut macaroni in salted boiling water, and drain. Put 3 dessert-spoonfuls flour in a basin, smooth with a little cold milk, and pour a breakfast-cupful boiling milk over it, stirring vigorously all the time. Add one or two spoonfuls of cream--or a little fresh dairy butter or nut butter beat to a cream--2 beaten eggs, teaspoonful minced parsley, same of grated onion, the macaroni, a large cup bread crumbs, seasoning of pepper, salt, &c. Mix very well.
Put in buttered pie-dish and bake 30 to 40 minutes in brisk oven. Turn out and serve with brown or tomato sauce. Some grated cheese may be added if liked.From the "Reform Cookery Book (4th edition), Up-To-Date Health Cookery for the Twentieth Century", by Mrs. Mill
Old-Fashioned Southern Waffles
Separate three eggs. Beat yolks and whites very light. Add to the yolks alternately a pint of very rich sweet milk, and handfuls of sifted flour. Enough to make a batter rather thicker than cream. Put in also half a teaspoon—scant—of salt, and half a cup of lard, or lard and butter, melted so it will barely run. Mix well, then add the beaten whites of egg. Have the waffle irons hot but not scorching—grease well with melted lard—the salt in butter will make the batter stick. Cook quickly but take care not to burn. Lay on hot plate—have a pitcher of melted butter to pour on. Lay the second waffle upon the first, butter, and keep hot.
It is not safe to begin serving without at least six waffles in plate. This, of course, provided you have several eaters with genuine appetites. Syrup can be passed with the waffles—but it is profanation to drench them with it—strong clear coffee, and broiled chicken are the proper accompaniments at breakfast.From "Dishes and Beverages of the Old South", by Martha McCulloch Williams, 1913.
Fruit for Breakfast
Melons.—The best way to eat melons is unquestionably with a little salt; they should be kept over night in an ice-box and served at the following breakfast; but melons are very deceptive; they may look delicious, but, from growing in or near the same garden where squashes and pumpkins are raised, they often taste as insipid as these vegetables would if eaten raw. In this case they are made very palatable by cutting the edible part into slices, and serving them with plain dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt.
Oranges.—Of the many ways of serving oranges, I prefer them sliced. If in summer, keep them cold until wanted. Remove all seeds, and cut large slices in two. Mandarins are served whole, with the peel scored but not removed.
Peaches.—If the peaches are large and perfect do not slice them, but serve them whole; wipe or brush off the feathery coating, arrange them neatly on the fruit-dish, and decorate them with fresh green leaves and flowers.
Sliced peaches turn a rusty brown color if allowed to stand after cutting them. Should this occur, cover them with whipped cream properly sweetened.
Pears.—Fine-flavored pears should be served whole; inferior pears, sliced and dredged with sugar; they are acceptable when mixed with other fruits.
Pineapples are best served as a salad. Pare and dig out the eyes; take hold of the crown of the pine with the left hand; take a fork in the right hand, and with it tear the pine into shreds, until the core is reached, which throw away. Arrange the shredded fruit lightly in a compote, add a liberal quantity of powdered sugar, a wine-glassful of Curaçoa, and half a wine-glassful of brandy.
Alternate layers of shredded pineapple and fresh cocoanut served with a sauce of orange juice, seasoned with sugar and liquors, is excellent.
Plums are too often picked before they are quite ripe, which prevents them from becoming popular as a breakfast fruit; this is true of Apricots also.
Strawberries are often objectionable, owing to grit; wash, or rather rinse them in water, drain on a napkin, and serve with vanilla-flavored whipped cream for a change.
Nearly all tropical fruits that are imported are excellent breakfast fruits, such as the alligator pear, Lechosa prickly pear, pomegranate, tropical mango, and many others.
Omelet a la Duchesse
This is a sweet baked omelet, and is served the same as one would serve an omelet souffle.
1/2 cupful of water
1/2 a lemon's yellow rind, grated
1/2 cupful of thick cream
1/2 cupful of granulated sugar
1 teaspoonful of vanilla or orange flower water
1 small bit of cinnamon
Put the sugar, water, cinnamon and lemon rind over the fire, boil until it spins a thread and stand aside to cool. Separate the eggs; beat the yolks until creamy, and add the cream, then the strained syrup. Add the vanilla, and when cool fold in the well-beaten whites.
Turn at once into a shallow silver or granite dish, dust thickly with powdered sugar and bake in a quick oven until brown.