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looking at the stars...

My knitting blog and personal Speakers' Corner "I like driving people up the wall." -Me :D

Updated: 2018-03-08T00:46:38.464+01:00


Finished: Fair isle hat


Pattern: Fair Isle Hat by Sheila Joynes (Vogue Knitting, Fall 2010)Yarn: Lana Grossa Merino SuperfeinColorway: dark blue, dark green, beige, dark red, light blue, dark camel (where are the labels???)Price: ? Amount: less than one ball of each color, I actually think there is enough left to make a pair of mittens Needles: 3 mm Gauge: Swatching for small projects is kind of a waste of time, i.e. I was lazy and didn't swatch. It might not have been the worst idea though, because the hat is a tiny bit too big. Dimensions: It fits my head, but it could be a bit smaller, but still, it's ok. Modifications: I changed the colors. The original hat is dominated by blue and cool colors and I wanted something with warmer colors. The crown section got shortened.160 stitchesCrown shaping: row 1: *k2tog, k5, ssk, k1. Repeat from *. row 2: kRepeat rows 1-2 1 more time.4 rows: *k1 dark blue, k1 light blue. Repeat from *. 5th row: *ssk and k1 dark blue, ssk and k1 light blue. Repeat from *. 6th row: *ssk dark blue, ssk light blue. Repeat from *.Comments: It's probably one of the most beautiful things I've ever made. :) Creating new color combinations can be so tough, at least for me. What I have noticed is that if you combine two colors together, it might be a good idea that they have distinctive values, otherwise you can't see the pattern well.More information about color theory be found here: [...]

Yarn shopping in Madrid


Went yarn shopping today. Before that, I looked for information in the Ravelry Madrid group and got some replies. There's one Spanish brand, Katia, but it seems they don't produce yarn that is worth it to get obsessed about. There are some small yarn shops, but one was too far for me, the other one mostly sold Katia and the third one sold yarn by the weight (that sounds bad...), so I decided to go to El Corte Inglés which is THE department store in Spain (or at least where I have been so far). Their products are usually of high quality and they have Rowan (you can't really go wrong with Rowan, although I'd say the singles they sell is probably just going to felt like any other yarn. Have you also noticed how lately singles have become a trend? Some ideas sucks and this is one of them. In case you have noticed, the yarn that is sold for felting, is also a one-ply. I think the worst idea was the sock yarn from Schöppel that was single.)I got me some Felted Tweed in a really nice dark blue. Of the green I originally wanted, unfortunately, only one ball was left. I've used this yarn once for the Gretel beret by Ysolde Teague. I think if you're not careful it felts, but it should be ok. It might also be a good yarn to use for the Deep V Argyle Vest that I made. It's definitely softer than the other one.The Corte Inglés has a nice selection of Rowan yarns. Prices are similar to here, if not the same. Now, the thing that sucks in Spain if you knit (at least for me) is - they use mainly straight needles. There were short circular needles (40 cm) in bambú by Prym for nearly 9 €?! And some metal ones, 80 cm long (cheaper, but I seldom use metall ones in that length). And of course they did not have all the sizes that I would have needed. The yarn I finally picked was the result of some kind of compromise between color, weight, and availability of needle size and length. I think if I had known that, I would have brought some of my unfinished projects with me or some needles. Next week I might check out the Madrid knitting group.Some other random thoughts about Madrid: - I went to a little supermarket today and they had organic soy milk! And wholemeal toast! Not what I would have expected.- I get lost all the freaking time. Somehow I lost the ability to read maps and remember where I have to go. Yesterday it took me more half an hour to find the bus stop and when I finally found it, it was so late that no buses were running anymore. And today I managed to take the right train, but in the other direction. Instead of riding the metro for six stations, I got the whole roundtour.- Why are there no complete lists of all the places where the bus stops at the bus stops? Sometimes I'm standing at the there and wonder if I'm at the right stop or not or if it's indeed going where I want to go.- People in the metro kind of looked down. I wonder if it's because of the financial crisis? Apart from that, they say hello way more often than here. [...]

Finished: Dianna shawl


Pattern: Dianna by MaweLucky/Jane Araujo (free pattern!)Yarn: My own handspunFiber: Fine ShetlandColorway: PeachesNCream Price:?? Amount: Till I ran out of yarn Needles: 4 mm Gauge: -Dimensions: ?Modifications: Made a borderComments:The instructions are not for normal knitting, but it’s assumed that you will knit the WS rows backwards. Purling a WS row actually means purling backwards = knitting the WS row. Took me a while to figure that out…  I think the pattern doesn’t have a border or I didn’t like it, so I had to come up with my own design. Unfortunately, I didn’t have yarn left and since it was my own handspun I couldn’t get more. After giving it some thought I decided to use the leftover yarn I had used for the ”One-skein shawl with picot edge”. I had used it doubled as a 4-ply, but since my handspun was laceweight, I split it into half and used it as a 2-ply. I decided to do ruffles. I had already picked up the stitches for the borders and started knitting the ruffles, when I found some leftovers from my handspun (yeah, I did have some leftovers, but I had forgotten about it since there was a long break between finishing the leaves part and starting the border). I wondered if I could finish the leftovers and came up with the idea of knitting some rows of reversed stockinette with the handspun and doing the ruffles with the other yarn.Honestly, knitting the border was a bit gruesome, because I had to rip back a couple of times. I finally settled on picking up two stitches for each border stitch with the handspun. Then I made the rufffles with the other yarn.I’m quite pleased with this project. The yarn could be a bit softer, but it’s still a very nice airy shawl with nice color changes. I find the colors a bit too muted for myself (they look a bit more intense in the photos than in reality), but my mom likes these colors, so it’s ok.The pattern is great and I love how nice the pattern brings out the colors of the handspun yarn. Once I figured out the aforementioned problem it was actually easy to knit. By the way, that was my first entrelac project!I finished the project last year, but  hadn't managed to blog about it. I'd say, picture #9 is truest to the colors. If you want to see the images in a bigger resolution, you will have to go to my flickr page. Flickrs seems to have changed their rules about posting pictures yesterday and I don't have the original ones here to upload them on Blogger. By the way, I'm in Spain the next two months - must check out yarn shops! [...]

Finished: Deep V Argyle Vest


Pattern: Deep V Argyle Vest by Eunny YangYarn: "Filcolana Gotlandsk Pelsuld"Colorway: purple and gold (215 and 164), the other colors are also greatPrice: nearly 10 € for 100 gAmount: 1 skein (100 g) of each colorNeedles: 2.5 mm (for the tubular cast-on), 3 mm for the rest of the ribbing, 3.75 mm for the fair isle pattern (I think I should have gone up with the needle size though, the knitting is fairly tight)Gauge: I was lazy and didn't swatch... (I know! I know who is reading this blog and I know what you want to say! :p) I think sometimes I do completely irrational things just to defy whatever higher entity is out there. And when I'm lucky, I feel special and think I have control over this chaotic process called life. When I'm not lucky, it becomes another unfinished project...Dimensions: My size. Modifications: I was really lazy with one, so I didn't really modify a lot and just hoped that it would turn out fine. Picked up 3 out of 4 stitches for the arm and neckline. 96 stitches total for each arm. The ribbing is in a different color, because there wasn’t much of the other one left and I didn’t want to start a new skein. I actually like that. Comments:I started this project twice before. Once with red and black yarn, then with white and blue yarn. The latter didn't have gauge, but I'm not sure, I also didn't really like the color combination when it was knit. My personal feeling is, you need colors with a high contrast, then it looks good. If the colors are too similar, the pattern blurs.Eunny only explains in the instructions how to decrease, but not to increase. You can find the explanation on her blog though: cast-on, 2x2 rib. Did k2, p, k2 instead of k4, p, k4. I used 2 mm needles for the four setup rows and then switched to 3 mm needles.Techknitter’s method for joining in the round looks interesting, but it was too complicated with the tubular cast-on, so I just slipped the first stitch and knit it together with the last one, but still, I might use her method for other projects: held the gold color in the left hand and purple in the right. I think when the pattern color is much darker than the main color and the pattern is actually really dominating, then I should nevertheless switch the colors and hold the main color in the left hand and the pattern color in the right hand. The stitches I do with my right hand are much tighter than the stitches I get when continental knitting.The pre-cut state: Every time I read about people cutting steeks the first time, I feel bored with the descriptions of the angst and anxiety that these women go through. Since so many people have cut steeks before them, it shouldn't be such a great deal, right? Since cutting a steek didn't look like it would provide me with enough excitement and thrill, I decided to take it up a notch. Instead of cutting through the middle stitches and have 4.5 stitches left for the edge, I thought I should try to reduce the bulk and leave only 2.5 stitches for the edge. Being a smartass sometimes can be wonderful, but in this case, it was a bad idea. Things started to unravel and I had to come up with fancy knots and surprising ties to prevent my vest from becoming another unfinished project. Since I'm not totally stupid, I had tried this experiment on the backside of the neck where you only cut a couple of stitches which helped to keep the problem below catastrophy level. As you can see in the following pictures, the stitches at the neck are a bit loose, but well, I think the damage is under control. 2.5 was a bit low, but well, I thought 3.5 would be ok. So, for the rest of the neck and the armholes, I stuck to 3.5 stitches for the edge. I used some alpaca leftovers for crocheting the edge. I think the vest fits better if you have a long torso, otherwise it’s a bit too long. The armholes[...]

Finished: Leafprints Shawlette


Pattern:Leafprints Shawlette by Anne HansonYarn: Some lace yarn from Handpainted.comColorway: Wild DaisiesPrice: don't know, but probably a couple of dollarsAmount: less than 850 gNeedles: 3 mmGauge: You should know by now that I rarely swatch when knitting shawlsDimensions: bigModifications:made the lace part symmetricalstart at row 25 of lace chart until row 32, then do row 1 to row 32.149 stitches (garter stitch) on each side, increase 38 stitches: 187 stitches on each side 36 x K4, yo, k5, yoComments:Easy pattern. The yarn is not supersoft, but not that scratchy as I had assumed. It's not cashmere, but probably soft enough to wrap it around your neck. The color is gorgeous. It's really really nice. I have some yarn left, so maybe I will make a small shawl for myself.The picture of the shawl were taken with a Canon Ixus 130. Honestly, I don't think I am that thrilled with the camera... The first picture was taken with a Nikon Coolpix and while I always thought that this camera wasn't great, I still find the colors of the pictures were better. [...]

Finished: Handspun yarn "Coleus"


Fiber: Corriedale
Color: Coleus
Seller: TheFiberDenn at Etsy

Comment: It's the same yarn as here and here. This one if navajo plied unlike the very first mini skein (2-plied) I made.

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Finished: Sewn skirt with ruffles


Pattern: Oops, I can't really remember... I remember using Sew What! Skirts: 16 Simple Styles You Can Make with Fabulous Fabrics It's a nice book which teaches you let your creative juices flow and design your own skirt.Comments: I like the fabric a lot. The skirt is not too bad either. When I made it I was thinking about something à la Provence. I don't know how old this skirt is. I tried it on a couple of weeks ago and thought it didn't look so bad and I realized that it only needed a zipper. Me, giving up on things that are only inches, nah, milimeters, away from being finished? Ne-ver...There's a zipper in the back. Instead of using some elastic for the waist I used a long bow/tie/ribbon? (I'm also struggling right now with the right word for it in German... ahem... Schleife? Band?). It's superlong, so I can wrap it around me and tie into a bow.Colorwise the first picture is probably closest to the true color, although I like how bright and nice the blue is in the third picture. And I really like the ruffles. :)I have some fabric left to make pouches or bags for my knitting. Awesome! :) You may have noticed that I fixed my template. The guy who created the first template must have deleted the images, hence, all the error messages. I got a similar template somewhere else at and spent Sunday afternoon tweaking it here and there. Now most issues have been fixed. The template has been adapted for Blogger and is based on "Integral" from The template is based on "Integral" from and was adapted for Blogger. Hm, I think, I should go and save all the images before they disappear again. [...]

Finished: Ribbed Lace Bolero


Pattern: Ribbed Lace Bolero by Kelly MaherYarn: Filosoft by Wolle Rödel, 52 % merino, 48 % cotton, handwash at 30 °C, recommended needle size 4 -5 mm, recommended gauge 22 st x 28 rows = 10 cmColor: whitePrice: €3.75? per ballAmount: 2.5Needles: 3.5 mm for the ribbing, 4.5 mm for the bodyGauge:Dimensions: Modifications:"Switch to size 8 needles now"I think I did this a row earlier, so that the stitches that were going to be cabled would be on the needles with a size 8, just like the stitches that had been undergoing ssk and k2tog on the other side had been sitting on needles size 8.Comments:I'm convinced shrugs look like very clever constructions (you have a circle/rectangle and sew it here and here and voilà, a finished garment. How easy and clever is that?), but the fit is weird. There are three interconnected issues: collar, back, arms (armhole). Either the collar is too big or you have this bulk in the back or your armholes are too small. I think you will always only get a fit that is ok, but not great. Or maybe it's just my body. Ok, I might also rearrange the back material a bit by turning the collar in a bit more, then it might be acceptable. From the front it looks nice.Love the yarn. I've already used it in another color, red, but it didn't feel as nice as in white.Oh my, the combination of bad posture and ill fitting clothes... I think I like pictures taken without flash better. It's weird how different I look in the picture with and without flash. I like kitty, but kitty doesn't like me. Hmpf. Supposedly it's a very affectionate cat, but while I was talking to it, its tail was swinging nervously back and forth, as if it was sweeping the street. [...]

Finished: Orangina in pink


Pattern: Orangina by Stefanie Japel (it's actually cheaper when you buy the PDF from Ravelry: "Seidenglanz" by Schachenmayr nomotta, 100 % cotton, 125 m/ 50 g26 st x 36 r = 10 cm x 10 cm, recommended needle size: 2.5 - 3.5 mm; one of my friends said that the yarn is now called "Catania". I can't remember exactly how "Catania" looks like, but I think it does look similar. Each ball had a couple of knots.Color: 158Price: €1.25, reduced from €1.75Amount: 4 ballsNeedles: 3.25 mm for the body and 2.5 mm for the ribbing. I would have preferred 2.75 mm needles, but didn't have circulars in the right length.Gauge: 18 stitches (2 pattern repeates) in 9 cmDimensions: 9 pattern repeats each for front and backModifications:Made it smaller. I was afraid it would emphasize my shoulders too much if it was too wide. The ribbing is also lower, but that's just because I assumed that with blocking the body would shrink lengthwise, so I knit a couple rows more. It didn't really shrink and I was just too lazy to rip back again and I thought that this piece was already full with mistakes anyway. And also, it looks ok that way. If I hadn't liked the look of it I probably would have ripped back.I knit the top in the round after the armholes. If you knit in the round, you can reduce some stitches, but be aware - you can not just line the pattern repeats one after another. It will not work where the beginning and the end of the row meet. At the sides you need to keep some of the edge stitches. Trust me, I've repeated this over and over again until I finally understood that my knitting was correct and it just did not work out, no matter what I believed.After joining to knit in the round and after like 10 cm I tried it on and realized that the armholes are too big. - I just don't know why they were too big! AAAAHHHH! I had measured it! At this point and after ripping back so much I decided to make the armholes smaller by sewing the side seams together.Comments:The yarn doesn't seem to be a great quality. Usually I don't block garments inbetween, but in this case I wanted to check the length of the lace part (I turned out to be longer then expected, but just couldn't bother anymore), so I soaked it in water, meaning, I did not wash it with any detergent, just soaked in water and then blocked it. After drying, checking the length, etc, I continued working on the ribbing, and guess what, there is a color difference. You can even see it in the picture.The edge around the neck curls. The swatch was ok, but here the edge curls. I just blocked it again, but still, it seems like the curled edge is going to stay.I think I like it, despite the armholes and the curling edge. [...]

Finished: Saturday In The Park Perfect Dress


Pattern: Saturday In The Park Perfect Dress from Fitted Knits by Stefanie JapelKnitsYarn: Filosoft by Wolle Rödel, 52 % merino, 48 % cotton, handwash at 30 °C, recommended needle size 4 -5 mm, recommended gauge 22 st x 28 rows = 10 cmColor: red (1205)Price: €3,75 per 50 g ball?Amount: 12 (one was needed for swatching)Needles: 3.5 mmGauge: 24 st x 32 rows = 10 cm in stockinette and mock lace cable pattern. On the label the recommended gauge is 22 st x 28 rows, but I was afraid that the dress would sag at the bottom if it was knit too loosely and I tend to like my knitting to be a bit tighter than what is usually recommended on the label.Dimensions: I measured myself and calculated the amount of stitches that was necessary to make the dress fit. The dress has negative ease (a couple of cm).Modifications:20/06/2009Cast on 242 stitches. I’m doing it top up. This top down raglan thing according to my calculations is not working out for me.After the hem pattern decreased by 2 stitches = 240.Divided them into sections of 20 stitches. Alternating sections with stockinette stitch with mock cable pattern.After 18 rows: decrease 2 stitches in each stockinette sections: k5, k2tog, k6, ssk, k56 x 2 stitches => 228 stitchesAfter 24 rows: decrease 2 stitches in each stockinette sections: k5, k2tog, k4, ssk, k56 x 2 stitches => 216 stitchesAfter 24 rows: decrease in the mock cable sections:p1, cable, p2tog, cable, p2, cable, p2tog, cable, p16 x 2 stitches => 204 stitchesAfter 12 rows: decrease in the mock cable sections:p1, cable, p1, cable, p2tog, cable, p1, cable, p16 x 1 stitch => 198 stitchesFrom hip to waist: 20 cm = 64 rowsAfter 12 rows: - 18 st: => 180 st* Two decreases in each of the stockinette sections: 6 x 2 st decreases = -12 st* 3 x 1 purl st dec in the mock cable section = - 6 stI wanted the stitches to be a multiple of 5, because of the pattern.I now repeated the hem pattern for the hip section. I got the idea from Monikita: 9 rows: - 10 st => 170 stDecreases are worked on the sides. That creates the least disruption of the pattern. And I guess, that’s just what you do? From now on, decreases and increases are worked on the sideAfter 9 rows: - 10 st => 160 stAfter 8 rows: - 10 st => 150 stAfter 9 rows: - 4 st => 146 st* On the side: ssk, k3, k2tog150 st /2 = 75 st. This means my center on both sides was not between two stitches, but on a stitch.I think it should have been between two stitches, but anyway, trying to distribute the decreases nicely was tricky enough.After 9 rows: - 4 st => 142 stAfter 9 rows: - 4 st => 138 stAfter the hip section I added a central cable section (30 st wide).Now I started increasing.9 times every 7th row 4 increases => 174 stOn row 49 I added short rows. There supposed to start like 1-2 inches from the armhole and end 1 inch from the bust point. So, I made 4 short rows, 3 stitches apart. Starting 5 stitches from center stitch on the side. Ending 11 stitches from the center cable section. I find the short rows look a bit weird, ending above my bust point?Armhole shaping:I now had to separate into back and front and decided that the center stitches on the side would be added to the front.Decreases for the back and front: 3-2-2-Neckline:At the same time, after 4 rows (counting from where I separated the sleeves) I bound off the central cable section.Sleeves:Cast on 70 st. Added cables. Increased 2 st. => 72 st Knit two rows. Decrease 3-2-2 on both sides.Connecting sleeves and body part:Use two circular needles, one for the front and halves of the sleeves. The other one for the back and the other halves of the sleeves. Knit 4 rows. Decrease in front and back. Two stitches between the decreases.19/07/2009Picked up 3 stitches for every 4 stitches in the front and back and 3 stitches f[...]

2009 - International Year of Natural Fibres


FAO resolutionInternational Year of Natural FibresTHE CONFERENCE,Recalling that, following consideration by the Joint Meeting of the Thirty-third Session of the Intergovernmental Group on Hard Fibres and the Thirty-fifth Session of the Intergovernmental Group on Jute, Kenaf and Allied Fibres, and by the Sixty-fifth Session of the Committee on Commodity Problems, the Hundred and Twenty-eighth Session of the FAO Council in June 2005 had endorsed the proposal for an International Year of Natural Fibres;Noting that natural fibres play an important part in clothing the world's population as well as having traditional and promising new industrial uses;Recalling that much of the world's natural fibre was produced as a source of cash income by small farmers in low-income and developing countries;Desiring to focus world attention on the role that income derived from the sale and export of natural fibres plays in contributing to food security and poverty alleviation of the population;Believing that while the production and consumption of natural fibres offer significant environmental benefits, concerted efforts should be made to ensure that these benefits are not compromised by unsound practices;Recognizing that there were important potential partnerships among participants in the various natural fibre industries;Affirming the need to heighten public awareness of the economic and environmental attributes of natural fibres: 1. Requests the Director-General to transmit this Resolution to the Secretary-General of the United Nations with a view to having the United Nations declare the Year 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fibres; 2. Further requests the Director-General to inform future sessions of Conference and the Secretary-General of the United Nations of progress in making arrangements, including in securing funding, for the International Year of Natural Fibres and, subsequently, of the results of the Year once concluded.25 November 2005Source: [...]



Last month A really long while ago, I was in London. I was excited, because it was my first time to tread British soil beside the times when I was transfering to another flight at Heathrow airport. It's kind of funny that it took me so long to ever get there.Getting around using public transportation:Here's the website that will tell you how to get from A to B. You can use the tube or buses within London, but I only used the bus twice. Once from my friend's house to get to Camden Market - I had a nice view sitting on the upper deck - and then to get back to the airport.That day I didn't have One Day Travel Card, so I used an Oyster Card. It's a card that you can recharge online or at automats. They want to encourage the use of paperless tickets, so if you use an Oyster Card you get cheaper fares.If you want to travel outside of London with the train you can get an extension for your Oyster Card. There is also something called Oyster Card Travelcard.I feel like a complete failure and loser for not being able to figure out the real difference between Oyster Card and One Day Travelcard. *sniff* (Screw them, really... I researched it on the internet, but I don't get it and nobody I asked seems to understand it either.) . Anyway, I think if you want information about Oyster Card and Travelcard it seems the Wikipedia page still explains it best. Too bad that I didn't see it before I went on vacation. arrived in the afternoon and as my friend doesn't live in London, but in a small village a bit outside - a deadly boring place according to her - I wanted to see a bit of London first before going to her place. The first question was then, where couldI leave my bag? I don't know why I assumed that all tube stations would have lockers, but I learned I was wrong. The lady who sat next to me in the plane told me that they had lockers at Victoria station and she doubted they had them elsewhere. Anyway, if you arrive from Heathrow, Victora Station, a tube and railway station, is probably the next place where you can leave your luggage. They don't have lockers, but they have a service where you can leave your luggage. It costs a shocking 8 pounds. *gulp* It's a 24 hour service, but if you only want to leave your stuff for a couple of hours you still have to pay 8 pounds.If you walk out of Victoria Station you then have the choice between Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey. I decided that it was a bit late already and that I would leave Buckingham Palace for another day (that never came...). On my way to Westminster Abbey I noticed that a) a lot of Londoners are dressed in suit and b) they all walk quite fast. Someone I know complains about the Gemütlichkeit of people here, now I know what he means. In general, I find people in London to dress better than here. And a lot of cute guys are running around. :D And a lot of Spanish people. And a lot of the people in suits are foreigners. I've noticed that in other countries like the States and now Great Britain foreigners seem to be better integrated into society and are less confined to low paid jobs. One of my friends, who is British, said that in England people are more open and willing to give you a chance to prove yourself, while in Germany without the right degree you don't get far. On my way I saw this church. And this house. It looked so old-fashioned and cute among all the modern buildings.On the left hand side is a picture of Westminster Abbey. Surprisingly unspectacular to me. Not sure what I was expecting. On the other side of the street is this huge building with a flag on top of the tower. I saw a lot of people who looked touristy to me walk inside and come out. I asked one of the official looking people at the entrance what it was and [...]

Finished: Molly Ringwald in green


Pattern: Molly Ringwald by Michele Rose Orne in Knitscene, Fall 2006Yarn: Flora (Linea Pura) by Lana Grossa; cotton-soy blend (60 % organic cotton, 40 % organic soy), 140 m/50 g, recommended needle size: 3.5 - 4 mmColor: greenPrice:€ 5.65? € 4.50Amount: 5 ballsNeedles: 3 mm and 2.75 mm (for casting off), a small crochet hookGauge: 26 stitches x 36 rows = 10 cmDimensions: I cast on the same number of stitches as for the smallest size. Remember though that my gauge is different. The gauge for the original design is 22 stitches 28 rows.Modifications: I wanted to wear this in summer without anything underneat, so I made this a quite figure-hugging top. Also many knitters said that it was better to go down at least one size with that design. When I look at my back, which is gaping a bit, I'm not surprised.The piece with the ruffles is as long as in the original design. Since the whole thing had less width though, I didn't have straps anymore where I could attach the sleeves. I find my armholes are a tad small. It's not bad, but surely they could be a bit bigger.Since the yarn is thinner, I thought I could do what Muhv did and make the ruffles more, uh, ruffly - k, ktbl, m1 out of strand inbetween. By the way, I must add that I like ruffles, but I hate knitting them. I used an Addi bamboo needle and after the ruffles, bits of one needle tip had been chipped away.Added short-rows. That website was helpful: that oneexplains well how to do short-rows without any wraps, pins (Japanese short rows), etc: was a bit concerned that it would be too tight. In the end, I think the short rows were good, because they also added length to the front part of the top and kept the neckline somewhat straight and not have it hanging. Lengthwise I could have needed a couple of rows more. If I keep the neckline straight, the hem rides up a bit.Left out the crab stitch. It’s true though, you should do a tight single crochet round with a small hook around the neckline. Doing the single crochet round improved the fit of the top. Doing the crab stitches even more. That makes the neckline less floppy.Comments: I think it's a good thing I made this top smaller. Cotton is heavy and I can't imagine a loose fitting top made of cotton to look good. It probably would look like a bag. Apart from the ruffles, the whole top is knit in rib, which stretches somewhat, when you fill it out. I've only worn it once and I still think it had grown a bit. My neckline at the end of the day was a bit lower.Confession: I didn't wash my swatch. I should have done it, but I didn't... I wanted to start knitting and when you wash your swatch you have wait at least a day in most cases. And after I had started knitting I didn't want bad news from the washed swatch. This is the ostrich-head-in-the-sand-method. Sometimes it works well. More often it doesn't. You've been warned...The top was a big PITA to knit, because of all the modifications, but overall, I'm pretty content with how it turned out. I actually like it better than the original design. I just hope it won't grow too much with wearing.The yarn feels ok. I have the same yarn in white and that one is quite soft and feels nice though.The color is more accurate in the first picture. [...]

Finished: Ogee Lace Skirt


Pattern: Ogee Lace Skirt by Gryphon PerkinsInterweave Knits, Summer 2007Yarn: Rowan Bamboo TapeColor: whitePrice: don't know anymore...Amount: Less than 4 I thinkNeedles: When I started with the recommended needle size it was too loose. A year later, when I had to rip back a bit and redo the edge, it seems that my knitting has become tighter, because now I have to use a bigger needle size. Very strange…Gauge: doesn't really matter, I guess, with warp skirtDimensions: ?Modifications: Made it shorter and turned it upside down, because I didn't like the edge. It seemed to be kind of wavy. The leaves are pointing downwards now. I think I don't really like leaf patterns anyway where the leaves point upwards. That's against gravity and nature.Comments: I washed it by mistake at 40 °C. After it came out it was a bit stiff and had shrunk quite. I pulled it apart and actually, now I like it better than before, because it has lost somewhat of the drape (it was too much for me before).I don't really have much information about this project available, because I finished it such a long time ago. Before I made the modifications I didn't really like the skirt, so the it was just lying around. [...]

Finished: Endpaper Mitts


Pattern: Endpaper Mitts by Eunny JangYarn: Baby Alpaca by Lang, 170 m/50 g, 100 % alpaca, recommended needle size 3 mm, gauge 26 stitches x 34 rows = 10 x 10 cmColor: red and orangePrice: € 6,.per ballAmount: less than a ball in each colorNeedles: 2 mm for the ribbing, 2,5 mm for the bodyGauge: I'm counting 18 stitches in 5 cm (much tighter than is recommended)Dimensions: fit my hand like a gloveModifications: I exchanged the colors on the second mitt, because not only do I suffer from second-sock-syndrome, but also from second-anything-syndrome. I'm so glad that when you do fair isle, you can exchange the colors. I'll probably have to introduce that when knitting fair isle sleeves (just kidding [...]

Finished: Dress 09 from Rebecca no. 35


Pattern: 09 grey dress from Rebecca #35Yarn: "Cumba" by ggh, 42 % virgin wool, 28 % alpaca and 30 % acrylic(150 m/ 50 g)Color: natural whitePrice: € 3.95 per ball (that's the offical price for the yarn, but it's been a while since I bought it, so I'm not sure what I paid then. I bought it at Lanaiolo, the same yarn shop where I bought the yarn for the orange dress, also a design from Rebecca. Did I mention that I got the magazine for free when I bought the yarn for the orange dress? :) (I think I got it for free?) )Amount: theoretically you need 9 balls, but of course I'm so talented that I only needed 7, ha! I say it's 7, because I'm counting 2 balls that are left, but there could be more somewhere else. I had to start one ball to do the neck, but I didn't need a lot.Needles: 3.75 mm I wish I could say I'm a 100 % sure that it was this size, but sorry, I've been really really tired for a couple of weeks and I think it's taking a toll on my memory. By excluding other potential needle sizes I've come to the conclusion that it's very likely that one. By the way, recommended needle size is 4-5 mm.Gauge: well, something completely different!!!!Dimensions: size 34/36, theoreticallyModifications: Many! I started knitting this dress last year, thinking it was going to be a nice mindless project since I bought the original yarn, meaning no re-calculations, you just swatch until you find the right needle and then off you go. That was the plan. I made a swatch and then left it at some place where I couldn't find it anymore. I remembered that the gauge was correct though.I started knitting the skirt part, which seems so easy but I can't remember how many times I ripped back. It was too short, too long, then I decided that the waistline of the original dress was too high up. I'm not really a fan of baby doll dresses and less if they are knitted. This also meant that that the skirt part was too long again!!!! The good thing is, the yarn endured all the ripping back patiently. You can rip back as much as you want and it's going to be fine. At the end of the skirt part, you do some decreases, which I did, but I also added about 10 rows more instead of continuing with the bodice part, because I was afraid that the skirt would look too puffy and I wanted it to taper off slowly.The next step after deciding on the length of the skirt and the position of the waistline I proceeded with the bodice part. I must confess that I also derived a lot of pleasure from knitting this - ha, ha, ha! After a couple of cms people started making comments about the smallness of the dress. My initial unwavering optimism deflected any kind of doubt, but after a while it cracked down and I had to admit that it did look indeed small. Which meant - I had to swatch. My new swatch told me that the size was indeed good enough for my waist, but would cause problems later on. The bodice part is knit straight, there is no shapping, which usually would be ok as the pattern is very stretchy, but in my case I had to do work in some increases. I tried short rows, but the pattern is very ungrateful for that kind of thing, so I just increased on both sides until I had the same number of stitches as for the next size 38/40. My swatch told me that it would be ok if I did so, but I think I was just wishing that life be easier, meaning if I didn't have to think too much and just follow the instructions. If it couldn't be the instructions for size 34/36 it could at least be the instructions for size 38/40, right?Anyway, I also decided that the neckline was too high and I wanted the shoulders to be less wide. I made the decreases and hoped they would look fine. For the neckban[...]

Tim Minchin has a new fan


I just saw this video with Tim Minchin. I think he is awesome. You may not agree with the content of his rant, but you must admit that he is fantastic with words and that the background music perfectly supports his rant.Here's another one.Minchin describes his act as a "funny cabaret show" and sees himself primarily as a musician and songwriter as opposed to a comedian; his songs, he says, "just happen to be funny".[12] He draws on his background in theatre for his distinctive onstage appearance and persona.[1] In his performances, he typically goes barefoot with wild hair and heavy eye makeup, which is juxtaposed with a crisp suit and tails, and a grand piano. According to Minchin, he likes not wearing shoes in his shows because it makes him feel more comfortable. He considers the eye makeup important because while he is playing the piano he is not able to use his arms and relies on his face for expressions and gestures; the eyeliner makes his features more distinguishable for the audience.[2] Much of his look and persona, he says, are about "treading that line between mocking yourself about wanting to be an iconic figure. Mocking the ridiculousness and complete unrealistic dream of being an iconic figure."[13] The eccentric appearance removes Minchin from reality somewhat, allowing him to make outrageous statements onstage "without annoying (most) people".[14] [...]

Finished: Anemoi Mittens


Pattern: Anemoi Mittens by Eunny Jang (who unfortunately stopped blogging, but her patterns are still available on her old blog or via Ravelry)Yarn: Drops Alpaca, 100 % alpaca, recommended gauge: 23 stitches x 30 cm = 10 cm x 10 cmColor: green (a nice pea green) and white (natural)Price: was in my stash, but I think it's about 3-4 EurosAmount: less than one ball in each colorNeedles: 2.00 mm and 2.25 mmGauge: they fit, but I think for mittens they should have more ease to be warmDimensions: SmallModifications: NoneComments:The yarn:The yarn does not strike me as of great quality. I used the same yarn once to crochet a small shrug/vest. After blocking I realized that it was too small and so frogged it. I then realized that the yarn had become really sticky and you had to tear at it in order to undo the stitches. It was the same thing with the mittens, once you knit it, you better not rip back. This is one of the few yarns I have worked with that seem to felt just by looking at them. It also became very fuzzy after washing.The color range is amazing though. I really like the green, it has all kinds of light and dark speckles of green in it. Not a boring yarn to look at. And it's also soft and nice to touch.There's some bleeding when you wash it.The gauge:I just measured and I get 20 stitches over 5 cm, which means I managed to press a lot more stitches into a cm than what the band said. This is a bit weird, but the mittens look ok to me. I expected them to be a bit wider though since I didn't swatch. They fit, but I read that mittens are supposed to have a bit of ease to give the best insulation against the cold. I think next time I would use bigger needles.Fair isle and yarn dominance:If you want to do fair isle you need to know what yarn dominance means. The first time I heard about it was on Nona's blog. I didn't have any intention of doing fair isle at that time, but kept this piece of information in the back of my mind. I learned that:1. One color will dominate and pop out more than the other (take a look at her two swatches that she shows for comparison).2. It is the yarn that is carried below the other that will pop out more.If you didn't get point 2, neither did I... But I like that I'm so smart and remember things that I initially didn't need, because when I did want to do fair isle, I remembered this thing about yarn dominance. Since I didn't get it completely then (not so smart maybe? :D), I had to investigate this issue further.Reading Tia Judy and Très Chic Veronique helped me understand what was going on a bit more.Then I saw a commentator at meangirl's blog say that she was an English knitter (like me!) holding the contrast yarn in her left hand and the main color in the right hand. I thought that as I had no clue what to do I should follow her like a good lemming and do what she did. I also learned from the blog post that you are not supposed to change the hand that carries the colors at your whim.3. One hand, one color. Don't change. (We're talking about two color knitting and I use both hands instead of one hand to carry the yarn.)I also consulted my favorite knitting blog, TECHknitter, that never fails me when I'm in dire need of a thorough and detailed explanation of a knitting technique. She explained in one of her comments that in her opinion it didn't really matter that much if the yarn was carried from below or above unless you have can achieve an even tension with both hands (of course, we all can), but that a color would pop out more when the hand that carries the color is your unfamiliar knitting hand. The tension will be looser and the ya[...]

Mittens and a wrinkled dress


I finished the "Summersplash" yarn and I'm quite happy with it. I just don't know what to knit with it? Another Morning Surf Scarf? I don't have one, but maybe I can find something else that goes well with the yarn, too.Currently I'm working on two items - fair isle mittens and a winter dress. This is the first fair isle project I'm doing (apart from playing around with swatches here or there) and I'm quite pleased with my tension. The back part with the spirals puckers a bit, but the palm side is quite nice.The dress might have been finished already if I wasn't ripping back so much. It's not difficult to knit, but I continue to make modifications, which I don't like, but I think I now found a good solution.When I took the picture I realized how wrinkled the dress looks. I guess, when I knit something I don't really care too much how it looks. I stuff my projects in plastic bags and that shows. But washing and blocking will take all your tears away, so why bother. [...]

Finished Morning Surf Scarf and handspun yarn


Roving: 4.5 oz Domestic Spinning WoolColorway: CyanotrichiteDyer: TheFiberDenn.etsy.comPattern: Morning Surf Scarf by Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer (scroll down to click on the link, since she had this introductory text I didn't want to link directly to the pattern instructions)Yarn: Handspun, see aboveColor: CyanotrichitePrice: ?Amount: about 4.5 oz (about 130 g)Needles: 3.75 mm (Takumi bamboo needles, they're really nice to knit with. I think they didn't make this annoying scraping noise that the other bamboo needles make. I stopped using them and mostly used wood needles, but resorted to these, because I don't have many 3.75 mm needles and the others were already stuck in some other project.)Gauge: I think my yarn was in the 13 - 15 WPI (wraps per inch) range. For this she recommends to cast on 66 stitchesDimensions: Good size for a scarfModifications: None, I was a willing slave to the instructions. The pattern is easy, but it's still not fun to knit. I wasn't able to get the pattern in the beginning for whatever reason and ended up tinking and ripping back (20 cm once!) more than I ever had for most of my other knitting projects.The pattern is great for highlighting short color repeats, because with the dropped stitches you create bigger color patches than you would with a couple of knit stitches and this yarn was a bit problematic. Since I don't have much experience with spinning, the colors in the yarn blended and mixed a lot, creating a somewhat muddy look. If I had chosen a pattern with a lot of stockinette stitch it would have looked even more muddy, but with dropped stitches it turned out not perfect, but also not too ugly. Actually, everybody who saw it assured me that it looked fine. Yay! :) I think I need to clean my mirror... On the floor you can see the slippers made with Feltro that I mentioned here.The scarf was a Christmas present for my mom and the light was usually not so good for taking pictures, so the pictures are not so great. The colors are also of the kind that are difficult to capture properly. And now I don't have the scarf anymore. I also made a pair of felted slippers for her and my aunt. And I finished another Paisley Shawl for my Grandma in a very nice green alpaca yarn from Drops (she will get it after Christmas though... :o).Some laceweight yarn that I finished recently:Singles2-plyed laceweightI'm pretty pleased with how the yarn turned out. Even when they colors got mixed up, the yarn still looked good (on the first full bobbin you can see the colors of the two plies still match, except for the yellow-red and green orange part on the lower part; the yarn on the second bobbin has mixed colors everywhere).Roving: 4 oz kettle dyed BFL (Blue Faced Leicester)Colorway: "Summersplash"Dyer: [...]

Finished: felted slippers


Pattern: Felted DROPS slippersYarn: Anchor Wash + Filz-it, 100 % pure wool, 50 m/ 50 g, instructions say that it felts at 40 °C (didn't work for me though)Color: redPrice: about € 3.50 a ballAmount: 4Needles: 8 mmGauge:Dimensions: shoe size 37Modifications:Comments: Comfy, but ugly...The yarn doesn't felt well at 40 °C in the washing machine, although that's the temperature in the instructions. I washed these twice at 40 °C and then twice at 60 °C and I'm *not* happy that the stitches are still visible. I stopped washing them with hot water, because the shoes seemed to be shrinking while the surface didn't change much.I asked a shop assistant about a different felting yarn (Feltro by Lana Grossa, cheaper and softer than the Anchor, it was less than 3 Euros a ball) that I wanted to use for making slippers and she said that you should wash it at 60 °C even though the instructions also tell you to wash it at 40 °C. I knit another pair of shoes ( Pretty nice. The heel needs some improvement - I would start with a couple of stitches less than recommended and then increase the number of stitches in 3-4 rows, so you will get a round heel - but the rest is ok, more or less. Three balls are enough for shoes the size 37.) and these looked right after washing them once at 60 °C.I hated the DROPS pattern instructions (What? Huh??) and they're not very pretty. There's a couple of things I would do differently. I would knit the front part in the round and then do a three needle bind-off. All the sewing is just useless work.I'm not really thrilled about the Anchor yarn. It's the most expensive felting yarn I have seen so far and it doesn't felt well, not for me at least. The range of colors is also small, maybe 7 colors, compared with Feltro, also mostly basic colors, but plus multivaried combinations, or the DROPS own-brand Eskimo (40 colors (!):, I haven't ordered from this website yet though. I think Eskimo is not available in LYS. Of course, brick and mortar shops often carry less colors than online shops, there might be more colors available for the other brands, but they are the only ones I find in the local shops here.). I think Eskimo is not especially made for felting, but according to pictures I have seen it seems to felt well.Before washing:That's the wrong side out.After washing:I think that's after 40 °C - 40 °C - 60 °CAnd that's after 40 °C - 40 °C - 60 °C - 60 °COk, great. I just looked at the Ravelry project pages for this yarn and it seems that it does felt well (there's a very cute Christmas tree here: Just not for me! Maybe it's my washing machine? I actually felted the other shoes with my Mom's washing machine. [...]

Finished: Feather and Fan Shawl


Pattern: Feather and Fan Shawl by Eugen Beuger. Published in A Gathering of LaceYarn: Schachenmayr Nomotta Alpaka FashionColor: 122Price: I was lucky that about half of the balls I used were on saleAmount: 10? about 475 g. I used a tiny bit of the last ball to bind off and one of the balls was not completely 50 g, because I had used some of it for a previous projectNeedles: 5 mmGauge: -Dimensions: about 162 cm diameter sorry, after that girl n's comment I checked and it's actually 144 cmModifications: I stopped after row 126 and started doing the last edging rowsComment: I've heard that people knitting the Hemlock Ring Blanket had problems with the feather and fan pattern puckering too much despite blocking (a not so easy task from what I have heard. I got told that someone compared it with fighting with an octopus). My guess was that there are not enough repeats in the round and this causes the puckering (the other variation is that the blanket grows too fast in diameter/length). With this blanket I had zero problems with blocking, just the usual fussing, but there was no excessive use of force needed to whip this thing into shape as other knitters seem to have with the Hemlock Ring, and I also haven't noticed any puckering yet. It's nice and flat without any visible tensions.I'm counting 8 repeats of the feather and fan pattern in the round for the Hemlock Ring and this pattern has 24 repeats in the round. I haven't looked at the feather and fan pattern version of the Hemlock Ring myself, but from what my friends told me it seems to be knit in a similar as the feather and fan pattern in the shawl. My conclusion is that if I wanted to knit the Hemlock Ring I probably would work in modifications.The reason I chose the Feather and Fan Shawl was the play of light and dark in the feather and fan pattern (which I'm actually only realizing now as the thought that floated my mind when I saw the shawl the first time was, "I want to knit that one!") and because I liked the flower in the center better. With the flower and the bright color the blanket looks very sunny.Next time I would choose a thicker yarn though. It's still more like an übersize shawl than a blanket. The yarn is great though. I have a wrap cardigan that my mom made for me in the same yarn and it's really really soft. It's a delight to work with. I have three balls in red which I initially wanted to use for a shawl; now I want to use them for a beret. We'll see.I washed the blanket in the washing machine (washing programm: wool, cold) with a regular wool wash, because it was too big to wash it in the sink. By the way, I wash most of my wool stuff in the washing machine (cold), even when it's not superwash wool. If I want to give an item a special treatment and when it's not too big I handwash it with Kookaburra, but that's it. [...]

Finished: wedding stole


Pattern: Lead or Follow Lace Scarf by Jackie Erickson-SchweitzerYarn: Rowan Kidsilk Haze, 210 m (229 yds)/25 g, recommended needle size 3.25 mm - 5 mm, gauge 18-25 stitches x 23-34 rows in 10 x 10 cm, 70% super kid mohair and 30% silkColor: "Cream" #634 (it's an off-white, the other off-white Rowan offers is "Pearl", but it looks darker. The true white shade, "Bleached", what an awful name for a color, by the way, is discontinued.)Price: about $13 per ballAmount: 3 and a tiny bit of the forth to finish the last row before the binding-off row and the binding-off rowNeedles: 5 mmGauge: -Dimensions: about 192 x 68 cmModifications: I decided to go for a different border since I wanted it to look like a stole and less like a scarf. I kept the inner border though and added a similar row with holes on both ends. For the outer border used the one from the Lily-of-the-valley shawl from the book "Lace Style."Width:I did the 12 stitch repeat five times. I left out the 13 stitches part on the right side and the 13 stitches part on the left side. Total cast-on: 79 stitches (including the slip stitches on both sides, one for each).Length:12.5 repeats.Inner border:I wanted both ends of the stole to have a similar inner border as the ones on the side, which consisted of yarnovers and a garter stitch edge. I started with a provisional cast-on and knit three rows in garter stitch and then knit the row with holes.Subtracting the slip stitches and the inner borders I had 69 stitches in the middle left. My plan was to [k2tog, yo] until the end. As I wanted to start and end with a yarnover though I had to knit the last three stitches together in order to maintain the same number of stitches.When your stole is long enough, finish with a row with holes and three garter stitch rows.Outer border:For the border you need a multiple of 8 +2 stitches.I increased 11 stitches on both ends = 90 stitches (it might not be necessary to pick that many for the border. Either that or I should have picked up more stitches on the side. The border on both sides is more stretched than the border on the two ends).For both sides of the stole you're supposed to pick up three stitches from two slip stitches. I had to drop some of the picked up stitches (three on one side and five on the other? My inner perfectionist ran amok when it realized that things were not working out as expected.) in order to get a multiple of 8 + 2. I picked up 226 stitches on each side.By the way, there are mistakes in the border (row 11 and 13). In the pictures you will see that the yarnovers are on both sides of the corner center stitch (count them), but the charts will tell you that the center stitch and the yarnovers in row 11 and 13 are separated by one knit stitch. Of course, I did notice that the pattern was kind of irregular, but instead of stopping and investigating further, I ignored the tiny nagging voice in my head that was preventing me from blissful mindless knitting. But it was ok, in the end I just had to figure out how to fix a mistake a couple of rows down in a lace pattern. Why have it easy when it can also be complicated and fun. :D It was fixable though without too much fussing around.The border is really pointy. That's because I added extra stitches when binding off, meaning after binding the yarnover before a center stitch, I knit a stitch (basically you crochet a new stitch), bound off the center stitch, knit/crochet another stitch, bound off the yarn over. I think the border [...]

Finished: One-Skein Shawl


Pattern: One-Skein Shawl by Clara H. Parkes from Knitter's ReviewYarn: 1/15NM lace weight, 100% camelhair from Colourmart; I asked them to ply it for me, so I received a 2-ply yarn, but then I wanted a heavier yarn and used it doubled. So, what I used was a 4/15 NM yan (fingering weight?)Color: KidPrice: $16.00 Amount: I have yarn left, I think I used more than 100 gNeedles: 4.5 mmGauge: I made a mini-mini swatch to check if my needle size was right, but it's a shawl, so you don't have to swatch properly and measure how many stitches go into 10 cm. :p (you know who you are :p :p)Dimensions: 150 cm wide and 75 cm from center to tipModifications:I also modified the cast-on. Instead of casting on 5 stitches, I cast on 3 ((I'm convinced that it looks nicer that way, but don't have proof, because I didn't bother to cast on 5 and compare it with my 3-stitch cast-on. Just trust me. :D).1. Row: Setup row: k to the end2. Row: 1. row: k1, yo, k1, yo, k1 (=5 stitches)3. Row: 2. row: k1, purl to last stitch, k1Continue with the 1. row from the one-skein pattern (= your 3. row).Every 9. and 11. row I added some holes:k1 (edge stitch), yo, repeat [k2tog, yo], k1, yo, k1 (center stitch), yo, k1, repeat [yo, ssk], yo, k1 (edge stitch)Edit: Sorry, I'm confusing. The first rows with holes are done in the 11. row and 13. row. After that it's every 9. and 11. row.Picot edge: Using the cable cast-on, *cast on two stitches and bind them off. Bind off two more stitches (I purled them. I find the edge looks nicer that way and I was also hoping that I would get a less curly edge. In the end, I didn't have problems with the edge curling, but I also blocked a lot.).* Repeat from * to *Yep, that's a spinning wheel that you're seeing in the left corner! :D It's a Minstrel from Kromski. I had a hard time deciding, because at first I like the antique look of this wheel, but then I thought I wanted something less frilly and with clear lines and shapes, like the Ashford Joy (I was also thinking of all the dust that would settle with time in the thousand corners of the Minstrel. While I don't like cleaning, I like things to be clean, if you know what I mean.). Having tried it before I did know that it was a good wheel and after reading Abby Franquemont's post about choosing the first wheel and her recommending it together with three, four other wheels I decided to go with that one (also the others were not really available here.). Sofar I'm really happy with it. :)Same stuff as here, but spun with the wheel.The blue yarn is Domestic (a bit scratchy. Or maybe overspun...? :o ) [...]

Finished: Lilly's Leaf Shawl


Pattern: Lilly's Leaf Shawl by LillysmuulYarn: Wollmeise sock yarn, 100% merino superwash, 150 g skein (574 yards), 350 m/ 100 g, wash at 30 °CColor: "Farn"Price: around 15 € per skein?Amount: well, more than I thought in the beginning! I ran out of yarn after finishing the body and I had to start a new skein for the edge. Of course, I hadn't bought a second skein. I tried the skein that one of my friends had, but the color was too muted. I finally succeeded obtaining another skein by contacting Claudia from Wollmeise. She was supernice and did indeed have a similar skein. It's not a perfect match, but the difference is not too obvious.Needles: I think 4.5 mm (sorry, I didn't write it down and between finishing and blocking a lot of time passed. I finished it sooo quickly, but not having jigsaw mats to block it delayed the whole finishing process.)Gauge: -Dimensions: 168 wide and from the center to the tip it's 80 cm (I measured after blocking it, usually my shawls shrink a bit after that)Modifications: noneIt's a nice and easy pattern. The main body is composed of a quite popular Estonian stitch pattern that I have already seen used a couple of times in other shawl designs. At the upper edge and on both sides of the center you have a leaf pattern.The yarn surprisingly looks very very much like cotton. If I didn't know that this was merino, I would have assumed that this was cotton. Many knitters I know think the same. I don't think this is something positive or negative, I was just surprised about its texture. The colors are fabulous, many many shades of green. I really really liked the first skein I bought. The colors were brilliant and just perfect greens. The second skein was also nice, but the green was tiny bit more muted and blueish. I'm usually not such a Wollmeise fan, but this colorway I liked a lot.The next two pictures were taken by a friend's boyfriend. I'm not sure if I should keep the shawl or give it away. I never knit shawls in this size (it's really big) and I have no clue how to wear it without looking like a granny. I think it doesn't look that bad in the first picture. I could also use it like a scarf and wrap it around my neck. Or I could give it to my grandma who likes green. Shall I keep it? What do you think? [...]