Wed, 14 Sep 2016 23:26:05 UTThe arrest last week of prominent winery investor Charles Banks on fraud charges has called into question the fate of his California wine empire. A federal grand jury indicted Banks in Texas Friday for allegedly defrauding former pro basketball player Tim Duncan, whom he had long served as a financial adviser. Later that day, the Securities and Exchange Commission filed a complaint against Banks on related charges in federal court in Atlanta. Duncan’s money went into Terroir Capital, an investment vehicle that consists of two funds, one for wineries and one for hotels, and in a sports merchandising company, Gameday Entertainment, where Banks is a part owner and the chairman of the board. [...] the Terroir funds, which Banks founded and still runs as managing partner, are conspicuously absent from the indictment and the similar complaint from the SEC. Terroir Capital has stakes worth an estimated $200 million in California wineries including Mayacamas, Wind Gap and Qupé. Would Terroir go bankrupt, forced to sell its share in the wineries? “Tim Duncan settled all of his claims with Terroir (recently), and he actually remains an investor,” said Kevin McGee, Terroir’s chief operating officer. A joint motion filed in U.S. District Court in Colorado on June 27 confirms that Duncan and Banks settled the claims in arbitration. The terms of the settlement are not public, but both Wells and McGee said that Duncan’s stake in Terroir remains the same as it was before he took any legal action. “We’re separate and not affected by what happens” in court, said Bob Lindquist, founder and part owner of Qupé in Santa Maria Valley, in which Terroir took a majority share in 2013. Coupled with Duncan’s lawsuit, the news of the Sandhi divestment raised questions for some in the wine industry about whether Banks’ business was as sound as it once seemed. “There was never any dispute,” Parr said, claiming that he wanted to bring Sandhi under the same umbrella as his and Moorman’s other winery, Domaine de la Côte. If Banks is found guilty, he’d be forced to pay considerable penalties; his personal financial woes could force him to sell some or all of his stake in the fund, thereby affecting the overall health of Terroir.
Sat, 3 Sep 2016 03:42:00 UTMargrit Mondavi, the matriarch of the iconic Robert Mondavi Winery and a stalwart patron of the arts in Northern California, died on Friday. If her husband, Robert Mondavi, who died in 2008, deserves credit for revolutionizing Napa’s wine industry, Ms. Mondavi deserves just as much for transforming the valley into a paradise of cultural sophistication. Under her direction, Robert Mondavi Winery became something of an artistic hub in the valley, its Summer Music Festival drawing the likes of Ella Fitzgerald, Ray Charles and Tony Bennett and its Great Chefs Cooking School hosting Alice Waters, Daniel Boulud and — most notably — the Mondavis’ lifelong friend Julia Child, who co-founded with Robert the American Institute for Wine and Food. Other philanthropic efforts included patronage of the Napa art institution the Oxbow School; launching the now-defunct art and wine museum Copia; and, thanks to a $35 million gift in 2001, endowing a performing arts center and a wine and food science center at UC Davis. During World War II, she met U.S. Army Capt. Philip Biever, who was stationed near the finishing school where she was studying art, at Lake Geneva. [...] Robert Mondavi was married to Marjorie Declusin, his childhood sweetheart and the mother of their three children, Michael, Marcia and Tim. An accomplished artist and passionate gourmet, Ms. Mondavi wrote books including Annie and Margrit: Recipes and Stories From the Robert Mondavi Kitchen, with her daughter Annie Roberts, published in 2003. In lieu of flowers, the Mondavi family asks that donations be sent to the Oxbow School, 530 Third St., Napa, CA 94559 or the American Cancer Society, 860 Napa Valley Corporate Way, Suite E, Napa, CA 94558.
Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:01:00 UTThere’s no question that California leads this country’s wine production — certainly in quantity and, this newspaper would argue, also in quality. [...] although California wine production has grown more than 60 percent in the past 20 years, the United States as a whole has grown even more dramatically, producing 75 percent more wine in 2015 than in 1995. In 2015, Chardonnay represented 16.4 percent of all grapes vinified in California, with 633,572 tons crushed. Twenty-one percent of all wines sold in U.S. food stores last year were Chardonnays; the next-most-popular was Cabernet Sauvignon, at just 14 percent. Compare barrel-fermented versions with wines that see only stainless steel; wines that undergo buttery malolactic fermentation versus wines that maintain a crisp, tart acidity; bright, juicy versions that were pressed immediately versus intense, exotic Chardonnays made with skin contact. The accomplishments of his winery before his death in 2008 were in wine style and quality, certainly — his 1966 Fume Blanc was among the first dry table wines produced in Napa’s modern era, for example — but also in presenting California wines to a global audience. Of the 138 AVAs recognized by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau as geographically distinctive regions for grape growing, three are new since the beginning of 2015: There are only three wineries within the AVA, but more than 50 producers — including Paul Hobbs, Joseph Swan and Kale Wines — source fruit grown there. “Our Cabernets are more austere than the lush Cabernets you get from Napa,” says Mary Lou Marek, of Fountaingrove’s Rincon Grade Winery. The area is warmer than many other North Coast growing regions, but its cooler nights, thanks to its proximity to the San Francisco Bay, create a nice diurnal shift. “People want to know where their food, and that includes wine, comes from,” says Susan Captain of Lamorinda’s Captain Vineyards in Moraga.
Sat, 13 Aug 2016 07:01:00 UT
Comstock Wines Estate Vineyards conveniently pairs the two with Yoga in the Vines. Can you do Downward Dog while sipping Sauvignon Blanc? Extended Puppy with Pinot Noir, or Cow Face with Chardonnay?
Wed, 22 Jun 2016 17:08:37 UTFirst Uncorked: A VIP hour starts at 1 p.m. that includes a few special wine selections, followed by a general admission session that runs from 2 to 5 p.m. A second general admission session is from 6 to 9 p.m. Food will be sold separately by El Porteno, Cheese Plus, Rainy Day Chocolates, First Crush Restaurant, Tamales La Oaxaquena, Drake’s Bay Oysters and the Grilled Cheese Guy. A portion of the proceeds go to the San Francisco Yellow Bike Project, a nonprofit organization whose volunteers refurbish bicycles for reuse in the city. The festival is also hosted in other cities, and there are already plans to return for Uncorked:
Thu, 26 May 2016 00:00:50 UTThe festival features just a small selection of the valley’s bottles, so you’d be wise to carve out some time outside of the festival to visit some wineries on your own — but in general the caliber of drinking here is much higher than at your typical music festival. Start with some bubbly Forecasts suggest it may be in the 80s this weekend — in which case I’ll be drinking the crisp, refreshing sparkling wines of Calistoga’s Schramsberg all day. Look for Blackbird’s 2015 rosé, made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Etude’s 2015 rosé, meanwhile, is all Pinot Noir. St. Supery will be pouring their 2011 Petit Verdot — a more herbal, savory alternative to the valley’s signature wine, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Tue, 24 May 2016 22:54:37 UTDonn Chappellet, who founded Chappellet winery in 1967 and built it into one of Napa’s most acclaimed brands, died on Sunday of natural causes. According to Mr. Chappellet’s son Cyril, he died “completely peacefully” at his home, alongside his family. Mr. Chappellet’s lasting achievement was not only to bring his own winery to greatness, but also to establish Pritchard Hill, the slope on which his property lies, as a sought-after area for grape-growing. In a very unusual move, Mr. Chappellet — who preceded his current neighbors, including Colgin, Ovid, Continuum and Bryant, by at least 25 years — trademarked Pritchard Hill, never allowing it to become an official American Viticultural Area. In 1954, after graduating from college, he founded Interstate United Corp., a distributor of vending machines that produced hot coffee on demand. A methodical businessman, Mr. Chappellet built Interstate United into a nationally traded stock with 7,000 employees. An avid collector of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Mr. Chappellet decided that the highest potential lay in the Napa Valley, and in hillside vineyards. With the help of his family and wisely chosen staff — a few of whom have now been with the winery for 47 years — the Chappellet winery thrived, in quality and business alike. All of Donn and Molly Chappellet’s six children have worked at the winery, and Cyril was named chairman in 2013. “We have the business structured in such a way that no one family member could ever radically change the ownership,” Cyril said. Standing 6 feet 4 inches and not particularly social, Mr. Chappellet much preferred one-on-one interactions to large groups, often leaving Molly to take one of their sons as her date to wine-industry functions.
Mon, 23 May 2016 17:53:28 UTInfluential wine organization In Pursuit of Balance to cease operations In Pursuit of Balance (IPOB), a nonprofit organization of California wineries who champion a restrained style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, has announced that it will cease operations at the end of 2016. “There’s so much energy and excitement around IPOB,” said Jasmine Hirsch, who co-founded the organization with Rajat Parr. On the one hand, it maybe seems strange to close it now, but we also really feel like the conversation in California has changed. The demands of running a nonprofit, Hirsch said, were becoming unrealistic. Hirsch, who runs her family’s Hirsch Vineyards on the Sonoma Coast, and Parr, the longtime wine director for Michael Mina’s restaurants and owner of the Santa Barbara wineries Sandhi and Domaine de la Cote, established IPOB in 2011. The idea was simple: to hold tastings, both for trade and for consumers, featuring a group of like-minded California wineries who produce wines that embody a principle of “balance.” The tastings, held in several different cities each year, would aim to generate a larger conversation. In the context of IPOB, the term was often interpreted to mean wines that are lower in alcohol and higher in acid — a much-needed departure, the group believed, from the boozier, flabbier style of wine that had dominated California for decades prior. Today, the equation of alcohol and acid can feel like the only conversation within the wine industry. The visibility and influence that IPOB managed to achieve is perhaps unprecedented for a roaming tasting event. [...] its promotion of restrained-styled wines coincided with other thought leaders, like writers and sommeliers, celebrating lower alcohol levels. Critics of the group accused it of attacking other styles of wines; of co-opting the principle of “balance,” which, many asserted, is much more complicated than alcohol and acid; of becoming a cool-kids club who only scratched the backs of their friends. The wine critic Robert Parker once famously referred to their like as the “anti-flavor wine elite.” There has never been a maximum-alcohol requirement, she insists; the wines have always been chosen by blind tasting. [...] to the extent that IPOB has become a stand-in term for wines of restraint, Hirsch is not bothered: “We are champions of that movement.” “San Francisco is where we got started, and where we feel is the right place to end,” Hirsch said. Stay tuned for more news about that tasting, and further thoughts on IPOB’s legacy.
Wed, 18 May 2016 21:49:13 UTTo the American palate, aquavit can seem like one of those austere, unfriendly, searingly boozy spirits beloved by people in some exotic place — but bewildering to us in the land of Coca-Cola. (See also: raki, grappa, shochu.) Not helping its case in America is the fact that the 40-ish percent ABV spirit is meant to be served as a snaps — sipped from a shot glass neat, never on the rocks. Which is why Staffan Terje, the chef and co-owner of Volta restaurant, was surprised to learn that there was a growing chorus of American distilleries producing aquavit. [...] aquavit would play a role, but shockingly little of the spirit is imported from Scandinavia. Aquavit is produced by flavoring a neutral spirit, such as grain alcohol or potato vodka, with spices, herbs and fruits, typically caraway and dill seed. The add-ons are a free-for-all in Scandinavian countries, but the U.S. mandates that anything labeled “aquavit” must include caraway. Terje features several selections from one of his favorite producers, Old Ballard Liquor Co. in Seattle, whose Alskar ($8/glass) is citrus-dominant, like a less cloying version of Absolut Citron. The restaurant’s exceptional Herring x 5 ($19), which features five preparations of herring, calls for a range of aquavit styles: maybe the Ovrevann ($9) from Duluth, Minn.’s Vikre distillery (subtle, delicate, but with a light smokiness) with the white vinegar-pickled herring, then something barrel-aged, like Vikre’s warm-spiced Voyageur ($10), with the heavier herrings in madras curry and with dijon mustard. Part of his tradition, too, is “eating and drinking for a long time”; Terje describes parties where dessert is served at 10 p.m., then stomachs settle for some steak tartare after midnight. If after all this you’re still not game for sipping liquor out of a shot glass, you might consider the Volta! cocktail ($12) your gateway. Made with carrot juice, honey, lemon and Volta’s house-infused aquavit (caraway, dill seed, Douglas fir, juniper), it’s a deftly balanced drink, tasting neither like too-sweet fruit juice nor like a juice cleanse. If Volta’s customers are willing to try five different preserved herrings, will they go for aquavit? “It’s definitely an acquired taste,” I heard more than one person remark euphemistically at the bar on a recent evening. Terje says that even Swedes are beer drinkers at heart, now mostly drinking aquavit on festive occasions.
Tue, 17 May 2016 23:34:34 UTGaragiste Wine Festival features renegade wineries The Garagiste Wine Festival, launched in Paso Robles in 2011, is finally getting some northern exposure as it uncorks its first event in Oakland. Named after the American “garagiste” wine movement — a term first used in the Bordeaux region of France to criticize small-lot winemakers working in their garages, who were considered renegades for “breaking the rules” of traditional winemaking — the festival is expected to feature more than 20 varietals poured by 32 artisan wineries from Northern California and Central California.
Mon, 16 May 2016 23:47:54 UTIn a move showing the value placed on prestigious, artisanal brands in the wine market, Jackson Family Wines is buying Copain Wines, a small and well-regarded winery in Healdsburg. With the Copain buy, Jackson Family continues to stake a major claim in high-end Pinot Noir, barely a month after acquiring Oregon winery Penner-Ash. Copain winemaker Wells Guthrie, who co-founded the business in 1999 with San Francisco holding company Murano Group, will become a Jackson Family employee and continue to make wine under the Copain name. Last month, Constellation Brands paid $285 million for Prisoner Wine Co. in a brand-only deal; Prisoner produces 170,000 cases a year. In January, Crimson Wine Group paid $5.75 million for Washington’s Seven Hills Winery, which produces 25,000 cases a year. Prices vary widely in the wine business based on location, product type and whether the deal includes assets like wineries and vineyards. In Pursuit of Balance is a nonprofit association of wineries, of which Copain is a member. If its recent buying spree is any indication, Jackson Family, which built its reputation on brands like Kendall-Jackson and La Crema, appears to be betting big on boutique Pinot Noir brands heavy in single-vineyard bottlings. Copain, Penner-Ash and Siduri, which joined the Jackson Family portfolio last year, all fall into this category — and represent a significant departure from the La Crema set in price, style and target audience. “We certainly have been focused on acquisitions of strong luxury Pinot Noir as a business,” Reimers says.
Thu, 7 Apr 2016 02:15:31 UT
Beverage giant Constellation Brands has announced that it will purchase Napa Valley’s Prisoner Wine Co. for approximately $285 million. “Our goal is to be a leader in the premium U.S. wine market and to continue to premiumize our portfolio, and ‘super luxury’ is one of the fastest growing segments in the category,” said Bill Newlands, president of Constellation’s wine and spirits division. “Constellation is trying to do the same thing that Gallo’s trying to do — buying up fine wine companies and higher-priced wines,” said Rob McMillan, executive vice president of Silicon Valley Bank’s wine division. The large wine companies which used to focus on higher-volume, lower-priced wines have recognized that the sales of those below-$9 wines have been dropping like a stone. The Prisoner Wine Co., currently owned by Rutherford’s Huneeus Vintners, includes five wine brands, which Newlands called “category-leading, unique and innovative wine blends ranking in the top one or two” in the super luxury category. The portfolio is composed of Blindfold, a Chardonnay blend; Cuttings, a Cabernet blend; Saldo, a Zinfandel; Thorn, a Merlot blend; and, of course, the Prisoner itself — a $35 Zinfandel-based blend whose etched Francisco de Goya label will look familiar to patrons of wine shops all over the country. Launched in 2000 by Dave Phinney, of Orin Swift Cellars, the Prisoner happily coincided with a surge in popularity of the “red blend” category of wine. Constellation Brands was launched by 21-year-old Marvin Sands in Rochester, N.Y., in 1945 as the Canandaigua Industries Co., a negociant-style seller of bulk wine. Though the focus remained on wine for many years, Canandaigua truly solidified its presence in beer and spirits with the 1993 acquisition of Barton Inc. — which brought beer brands Corona, Peroni and St. Pauli Girl, plus Ten High Bourbon whiskey, Montezuma Tequila and California sparkling wine pioneer Paul Masson. “We intend to continue their sourcing contracts as well as provide further access to our premium Napa fruit,” he said, adding that the focus would be on maintaining the wine styles. The brand is already up and running, in wide distribution, with loyal consumers and recognizable branding.
Thu, 31 Mar 2016 18:07:16 UT
[...] the study warns that the upswing in quality may not last forever, and a hotter planet looks like bad news for French vineyards in the long run. In California, meanwhile, the relationship between climate change and wine quality is not nearly as straightforward as what the study authors observe in France. “When people talk about climate change, they talk about it as this theoretical thing that’s going to happen in the future,” says author Benjamin I. Cook, of NASA’s Goddard Institute for Space Studies. Published last week in the journal Nature Climate Change, the paper, which Cook co-authored with Elizabeth M. Wolkovich of Harvard University, tracked climate data and grape harvest dates from wine regions in France and Switzerland for over 400 years, from 1600 to 2007. The authors then looked at wine quality — an admittedly subjective measurement, here based on English critic Michael Broadbent’s tastings of French wines from the vintages 1900 through 2001. [...] Cook and Wolkovich found that since 1980, drought has not been a reliable predictor of harvest timing, as it had been for the hundreds of years preceding it. “Here in California, temperature alone is the driver of harvest timing, but early harvests are not necessarily correlated with high wine quality,” says Carole Meredith, professor emerita of viticulture and enology at UC Davis and the proprietor of Napa’s Lagier Meredith winery. [...] a very early harvest in California may be the consequence of a late summer heat wave, which can diminish fruit quality. Proximity to the Pacific Ocean will be an important factor here, because even with some increase in ocean water temperature, the waters off the Northern California coast will still have a moderating effect on temperatures in coastal regions. In England — generally thought of as chilly and wet — a burgeoning sparkling-wine industry has taken root, made possible by the fact that the growing season average temperature has held above the cool-climate viticultural minimum of 13 degrees Celsius since 1993. “Frankly, from my point of view, I hope it never gets normal,” says Smith. Because that is the joy of wine.
Wed, 9 Mar 2016 22:22:37 UTThe wine is cloudy in the glass, a kind of pale-golden milk, wafting a cowshed’s worth of organic-matter aromas: wet earth, animal hide, sweet-smelling hay. A tangy bacterial thing (see also: kombucha; sour beer) makes my mouth pucker, and among its pretty floral flavors there emerges a more pungent biotic note, reminiscent of cannabis. “I think it says a lot about the establishment that they’re always criticizing natural wine for not having a definition,” says Bradford Taylor, the owner of Ordinaire. Natural wines have nothing, or almost nothing, added to them: no chemical treatment in the vineyard; no yeast to jump-start a fermentation; no fining or filtration; certainly no sugar or acid adjustments. There might be added sulfur dioxide, in minimal amounts, to prevent spoilage, but bonus points if you go totally sans soufre. Some natural wines are cloudy and semi-opaque (that’s the lack of filtration), and they can sometimes (not always) be funky or dirty-tasting — as opposed to the crystal-clean products you might get from a generous sulfur regimen. A doctoral candidate in English at UC Berkeley, he is writing a dissertation on “the concept of taste in early 20th century literature, as it toggles between an aesthetic sensibility and a more gustatory, more physical sense of eating.” Adding to this academic pursuit was Taylor’s love of the natural wine bars of Paris — places like La Verre Volé — which serve as meeting places for a like-minded community. To Taylor, these bars seemed to serve as both salons for wine intellectuals geeking out, and also casual, unadorned saloons, with inexpensive wine and simple food. Wine bottles, their prices scribbled in chalk above the label, line the walls of Ordinaire like books on a bookshelf. There are 10 or so wines by the glass — on a recent night, all European — and several more on tap (Matthiasson Chardonnay, Folk Machine Pinot Noir, Donkey & Goat Counoise), available by glass, half-carafe or carafe. Food options are cheese, charcuterie and Portuguese sardines; on some weeknights, neighbor Boot & Shoe Service will deliver pizza. If you’d like to try something unusual and new, you’d be wise to say so, and a staff member — often Taylor or his right-hand man, Quinn Kimsey-White — will gleefully guide you. While I was perusing the shelves recently for a $30-ish bottle of wine, Kimsey-White appeared, offering assessments of the different cuvées of Julien Altaber, a producer from Burgundy’s Saint Aubin whose wines include a skin-fermented Aligoté ($33) and a Pinot Noir from the obscure Maranges appellation ($37). The sardines, which we spread on bread, tasted meaty, creamy and mild — considerably less assertive than the Pinot.
Mon, 22 Feb 2016 18:12:32 UT
American wine industry trailblazer Peter Mondavi Sr. died Saturday, Feb. 20, at his home in St. Helena, on the property of his Charles Krug Winery. In 1976, Mr. Mondavi succeeded his mother as Charles Krug’s CEO; by the time he officially retired, in 2015, at the age of 100, he had firmly established Charles Krug as a producer of high-quality wines — a reputation that helped advance the rest of Napa Valley. While Mr. Mondavi’s older brother Robert, who died in 2008, often gets the majority of the credit for putting Napa Valley on the map of global wine regions, it was Peter Mondavi who was responsible for the family’s greatest scientific innovations in winemaking. Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, Italian immigrants who had settled in Minnesota, moved with their children to Lodi (San Joaquin County) in 1922 to start a grape-shipping business, sending California wine grapes back to home winemakers in Minnesota. Mr. Mondavi studied economics at Stanford and then, with an eye toward a career in wine, did graduate work in chemistry at UC Berkeley. After serving in the Army during World War II, he came back to St. Helena to devote himself to the family business. Together with their parents, throughout the 1950s and 1960s, they built Charles Krug into one of Napa’s “Big Four,” a group that included Inglenook, Beaulieu Vineyards and Louis Martini. [...] a family feud caused Robert to leave Charles Krug in 1966 to found his eponymous winery. In the decades that followed, Robert Mondavi Winery gained international fame, but was plagued by further internal discord, which led to the winery’s sale to Constellation Brands in 2004. A statement released by the family reported that when asked late in life about his proudest accomplishment, Mr. Mondavi said: Never losing control of our family winery. During the final years of his tenure at Charles Krug, he made significant renovations to the winery, investing in state-of-the-art equipment, and dedicating over $25 million to replanting vineyards. The St. Helena Catholic Church will host a private ceremony for family members. In the memo line or on an accompanying note, please indicate “Maurice Galante Research Fund”